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I switched my trans over to the 30nd and hated it. Definitely foamy/ aerated and had problems sticking in gear when fully up to temp. I dumped it immediately after the first drive and put in some 90wt gear oil since I had some. It's better, but I think I'm going to change it back to 80-90 this...

FWIW, you shouldn't be seeing coolant leaving that port outside of very unusual circumstances. Overflow/ recovery tanks didn't become a thing until the 80s in passenger cars. During day to day operation, you shouldn't lose or have to add any coolant. If you're seeing frequent flow from the...

If you've got brake fluid coming up/ out of the underhood vent, yes the airpack seals are gone. The pressure developed in the hydraulic portion of the airpack is much higher than the operating air pressure, so when the main shaft seal fails, fluid will work its way into the air side.

Same here, and that leery-ness is one reason I dont use this truck as much as I otherwise would. I intend to jump back into it once the weather warms up a bit, and I'll post up what i end up installing. FWIW, I chatted with a guy at a show last year who had installed a rock crawler style...

Returning to the site after a break from much internet use...... The short answer is no, i haven't made much progress other than amassing a few parts. The long answer is that now I need to take some action. What was to be one of my last drives before putting the deuce away for the road salt...

All non turbo trucks came with mufflers, so there wont be any specific routing or kits that run it straight, at least that I am aware of. if you want it straightpiped, you'll have to cobble together whatever you can make fit. Whatever you do, i recommend you leave a pretty deep bend under the...

my civvy reo 331 has a tach drive off the distributor in just about the same location.

Not my vid, just something that I found.

A smaller YouTuber that I follow had the button fall off his hydraulic head and made a video about repairing it. He did some decent camera work and I think its worthwhile viewing.

He's read and replied to me before too. I think jumping in early makes a difference. as time goes on the comments stack up into a big pile, and theres always the next thing to do to take up your time... I was definitely trying to beam thoughts through the screen too. A few minutes on this forum...

Check out my thread in the hot rodding section "Modern Air Over Hydraulic Brakes". While the thread got a bit overtaken with other peoples different types of project, suffice it to say its totally possible to build a treadle operated air booster to run a split master or even multiple single...

Back to the subject of prices... In this day and age, fewer and fewer people are interested in or capable of doing the work needed to keep any classic, but especially an MV, on the road. Thus, trucks that are done or at least pretty, go for the big bucks regardless of how much the trucks are...

No, they absolutely do not "need to replaced every year". Thats ridiculous. My fleet has sent trucks to the scrap yard with their original cans still on them. As for the loss of air lockup, I have described possible ways to avoid it in all of my recent posts, though frankly Im not concerned...

The system I described would not suffer from those issues, nor does it use an airpak at all. The only deuce hydraulic brake components retained would be the wheel cylinders. Pressurized air from the tanks, modulated by a standard big rig treadle valve would be sent to one or more big rig...

The guy in that vid, IIRC, is running the electric backup pump as his sole booster. The airpack system on these trucks doesn't work like a standard modern power brake system. The master cylinder is directly operated by the pedal lever which sends fluid down to the separate airpack unit. This...

I definitely get wanting to keep a direct connection, but for me, this concept was in a large part trying to add a dual circuit while getting away from the stock parts that can be hard to find, and cant be fixed out on the road. If you want the extra piece of mind for the air system, the...

im in!

IIRC the original fill level was up to the plug, but this was later lowered to "one knuckle down" to help reduce the chances of oil weeping through the hub seal. I cant remember the name of the publication it showed up in, but it was that military info mag... the one that often used comics/...

Before you put the injectors in and get ready for startup, bar the engine over through a number of rotations by hand (the same way you bar for setting the valves). The human arm and bar is a lot slower and less forceful than the starter so any potential clearance issues will stop you dead, and...

Just stopping by, Ive been incredibly busy so I havent found my notes yet. I believe the master I had found was for an 86ish chevy c60 or something similar. The brake pressure number is good to have. I suppose the threaded pushrod on a standard can would allow a bit of travel adjustment and...