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Well now that I’ve had the opportunity to drive it with both, I prefer the D. I’m going to try to rebuild my D and if all goes well may reinstall it.

The new C- turbos are not really loud whistlers like the old ones. Can hardly tell the difference. Maybe it will be louder when it loosens up a bit but as of now it’s not that bad.

So here is the update and pics. Removed old turbo. Had begun leaking oil pretty bad, but the interesting thing is someone had this off before and used some type of sealant. The oil return was fairly narrowed. Installed new C-turbo and works great. Will be tearing down the old D to see about...

Thank you, I will check.

Where is the oil drain back to the pan? On the turbo?

I will keep everyone posted and take some pics. It appears that the turbo will be in need of either a rebuild or replacement. Once removed I’ll be able to assess what’s going on. The rebuild kits are not cheap and given the age of the turbo it may be a better decision to replace with new so...

I do have a flame heater, but this is clearly oil spitting/leaking from the back side of turbo, no diesel fuel.

Doing complete restoration. Just got motor back in and running. Sat 4 years. Started and ran briefly 3 times for about 5 minutes each. Today ran it idling for 30 minutes and noticed oil splatter on frame rail and wet oil spot running out back exhaust side of turbo.

I have a '68 M35A2 with a D-turbo. When running the truck noticed oil splatter on the passenger side engine compartment. There is oil leaking out of the back of the turbo (between turbo and firewall). Why is there oil leaking out of the back of the turbo?

I am also installing a new wiring harness that has these two wires hanging. Once hooked up the starter button when pushed would not send any power to the starter. After investigating with a multi-meter power was not getting from the start switch to the starter. When I put a jumper wire...

Has anyone painted an engine block with Behr Marquee? These LDT’s run pretty cool. Wondering if it would hold up. Latex starts to degrade at 256 degrees F.

Has anyone painted an engine block with Behr Marquee? These LDT’s run pretty cool. Wondering if it would hold up. Latex starts to degrade at 256 degrees F.

The jury is still out on regarding if I would ever use it again. The only thing I really dislike about it is how soft the paint is until it actually sits out in the sun for a while. It feels tackey and leaves fingerprints and impressions, even after being painted for over 8 weeks and kept...

I am doing a complete frame off restoration with Behr Marquee exterior semigloss 24087 color match. It is a perfect match to original color we found while disassembling parts with original color that had never been touched by sunlight and matched it. Here are a few of the axles just shot. This...

I have recently seen on other forums where Deuce operators have removed the airpack completely from the brake system and kept the braking system with the master cylinder only. I’m curious about this. Others have indicated the brakes work fine with no issues without the airpack. Other than the...

This is perfect! Thank you! The TM I have that I got off the site does not list all these part numbers.

I'm rebuilding my steering box. It's a Ross TA box. The worm gear is in decent shape as are the races and bearings. The sector shaft is showing wear. I also believe the sector shaft bushings need to be replaced (have also posted for parts in classifieds). Question is this, if the sector...

In case anyone was curious about some of the internal parts of the in-tank pump, see below. The metal clip that was spot welded to the side of the pump housing which secured the ground cable from pump to bracket came off. I decided to utilize one of the screws that secures the bottom of the...

These are all the components for the fuse box in the first pic. Note the pin in the second pic. This your ground connection pin. Make sure the hole is free of rust and paint before you you place it in. It is a press fit, I used channel locks to seat it fully. 3rd pic is assembled pins. Next...

And for anyone that is curious to know, there should be 6 of the aluminum shims (called volutes) inside the bottom well of the pump. If you do not have enough shims/volutes to create a proper well that covers the impeller, the pump will run but you will not pump fuel because the impeller just...