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Since the speed is cycling up and down and the set isn't shutting off correctly the next thing to check is the spring on the mechanical governor. Below is a picture showing which hole in the arm that the heavy green spring needs to be hooked thru at each end. The picture is with the mechanical...

If the engine RPM is too high and it doesn't shut off properly it leads me to suspect the linkage on the mechanical governor isn't adjusted properly. At no load the gap between the magnet and the "target" on the governor arm should be ~5/16". If the gap is too wide it can cause problems with...

Those reading make much more sense :) Your readings are indicating either an issue inside the inverter (K8 inside the inverter is not closing) or wiring external to the inverter has an issue. Another possibility is that the engine is running at too low an RPM. With the set running measure the...

As I mentioned earlier something isn't right with the DC voltage readings you reported. The very first one is K12-12. That terminal is suppose to be tied to ground so the voltage there should always be 0 volts DC. So Lets start over... Open the control cubes and lower it. Connect your meters...

Something is amiss with your readings. I'd expect either ~0 VDC or ~24 VDC at each reading point. Readings around 12-13 volts are not right. Readings need to be done with S5 held in the UP position. The first one that's not right is K12-12. That terminal on K12 is tied to ground and the...

Sorry.... haven't tackled that yet.

It bolts up in the exact same spot as the stock VR. Pictures of one installed are here ---> Replacement VR

First thing to look at is the far left relay inside the panel. This is K12 the fault relay. If the tiny LED inside it is lit then there is a fault and the contactor will not close. Is K12's LED on when the set is running? If K12's LED is off... Here are a sequence of test steps to narrow down...

Do you have a hand held meter and are you proficient at using it?

The four circled in red.

The Quad Winding in the 802/803 simply generates the AC power that the Voltage Regulator requires to operate. The VR rectifies the Quad Winding power to DC. The VR in turn supplies and regulates the voltage supplied to the Field Windings to maintain the correct AC voltage. There are two...

Looks like a fuse holder to me.

They are now available and listed in the Classifieds in the Parts for Sale section

MEP-802A & MEP-803A Voltage Regulators Replaces TRC 19580 88-21063 6110-01-363-0492 Features include: · Replacement for your defective or missing Voltage Regulator... or to have a spare on hand · Works in generators that have defective Quad Windings! · Supports the 802/803's Field Flashing...

Correct, no Fuse Mod or MOV Mod needed. Also works in generators that have damaged Quad windings.

They all passed test with flying colors. Waiting on shipment of cable ties then I can start shipping. They should be here by this Wednesday. Will post up a listing in the classifieds shortly.

Just a thought over coffer at 4:30 in the morning... A hand held inferometer may help in determining if one cylinder may be the issue by measuring temps at the exhaust manifold for each cyl and looking for one running way hotter than the others.

Just finished production testing the first batch in my 802 today.

802A WiFi & 2-Wire Remote Start and Monitoring 803A WiFi & 2-Wire Remote Start and Monitoring Soon 804 WiFi & 2-Wire Remote Start and Monitoring MEP 831A Governor Controllers MEP-831A Battery Chargers MEP-831A WiFi & 2-Wire Remote Start / Governor Controller and Monitoring Custom products too.

The issue between the 803 vs 804 is the 804 can NOT output 120/240 single phase which is what most homes need. The 803 can do 120/240 and is a good fit for a home back up. Do analyze your load needs to see if an 803 is overkill. Need to worry about wet stacking due to too light a load. BTW...