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I tossed a tire... tread separation blowout... on my M1031.. @ 60MPH and realized... 1. It's fairly easy to control, even missing a tire. 2. People are #(&#(&, and think they're more important, passing you as you're trying to get to the shoulder with a blown tire. 3. Once ON the shoulder...

I was advised by WSP, and quite a few other states that I drove through (called ahead) on the trip from NC to WA... that a CDL is only required if the vehicle is being used for commercial purposes. In WA, there is an air brake endorsement, but ONLY for CDL drivers, so if you don't need a CDL...

I just noticed my gen1 light is flickering, and goes away when you hit the gas... Methinks the idle may be off a bit.... Probably contributing, but not the sole cause. Will work through the list of things you guys said to check. Thanks.

OK, I picked it up, and noticed a vibration at all RPMs, suspected the harmonic balancer, so I checked, and sho nuff, it was wobbly.. Replaced it, and the vibration went away... for a bit... I now have probably 200 miles on the replacement balancer. Now, at idle, in anything BUT park, and NOT...

Probably 240VAC... :-p

The harbor freight one came with a pour cup... Like I said.... $15... I just toss it when I'm done. Heh

I believe 85.5+ used a different relay, so the doghead mod is not required.

You'll notice the air sprayer allows blending.... Camo patterns are designed to obfuscate sharp edges and straight lines....A perfectly tight line of color can easily ruin that. I highlighted some areas, but if you look carefully, anywhere two colors meet, you'll see that it's blended...

Actually, prep is almost non existent compared to other paint systems because you're using water/latex, not enamel or acrylic.. Don't even need a respirator. Sand, wash, scuff, tape, then spray. I've painted 3 rigs with Behr, and while it did take longer to prep than to shoot, it was still a...

Go to a specialty tool shop, or a bolt/screw supply shop. Skip PBlaster, and go with AeroKroil.. AeroKroil was designed to be used with aircraft, and aircraft tolerances, it's designed to seep into the smallest of small nook/cranny/ etc and break free bolts... Also keep in mind that a TON of...

Looks like more of a 'free advertising' post... TBH. Good work though, so I guess it 'worked'..

Ran new rubberized fuel line from the tank, to the filters, and from the filters to the input of the IP. Installed my filter assembly.. Need to figure out some mounting things, as I had to move some stuff to get it to fit.. 2 x 2 micron nominal, 10 micron absolute filters Shutoff valve @ fuel...

I'll stick with the Gates... Dayco says [/I][/B][/B]

The 27006 seems to be a low pressure evap/return line hose, but it's pretty well built, and it warns against using in pressurized fuel injected applications. The hose you linked to is a different product... Clarification?

Looking at replacing with rubberized line... Diesel rated.. From tank to filter, and filter to IP The lines I'm looking at are gates 27006 which is rated at 35 psi and 10in/hg for vacuum and 1/2" Couldn't find any spec on vacuum and didn't want to buy line just to find out it'll collapse...

Built my fuel filter adapter for my A0 (NHC250) .... The original housing was filled with rust and gunk... so much so that the petcock on the bottom to let water out was completely plugged. Had to weld up an inverted flare to barbed connector, otherwise I'd have to use like 6 fittings to get...

Yup.

He knows... :-p

No BFL. Fail!