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As promised I wanted to post some pictures of the progress. The doors are inside and edge painted and now hung and adjusted. The hood is in Great shape. The adhesive that they used at factory had left loose and someone had applied a Permatex type adhesive to bond the inner and outer structure...

This is looking back 3 years. This was and still is my Fun Times.

Last night I spent some time working out in the barn on my M1009 project. It may not be much but I did get the door shells hung and adjusted. That was fairly easy as these are the same doors that left the factory on the truck in August of 1983. I always remind myself that this is a 38 year old...

Are you referring to the bridge placard on the bumper or the NATO slave receptacle? CUCV came with a small star 3"on the front bumper centered in the license plate area and a star on the back bumper to the side of the pintle hook. All left the Flint Michigan factory in 3 color camouflage. Every...

https://hillsidecomposites.com/products/metric-washer Or a hardware store. Also a starter and alternator shop can take all the guesswork out of this job. There is a lot more to rebuilding components to last then replacing a few parts. Good Luck.

Waterborne CARC 2 part. I is easy to spray and cleanup. It takes a lot of stirring and mixing to get the solids from the bottom of the bucket. It is Niles Chemical Paint. I had been using Alkyd Enamel and liked that for ease and clean up. But using the water hose and a wash rag makes a world of...

I went out 0415 this morning and checked on the M1009. This is what I saw. Nice. And I cleaned the spray gun and my hands with a garden hose.

I may have one. Let me look. I had a few OEM ones that were the Harrison plastic/aluminum and a few copper brass. I may have used them up but I spotted one in a parts hunt last week and want to see if it is a full box or just an empty box. Do you live in Delaware?

I am going to stir the paint. Just wanted to share the pictures. I will post pictures later. Turning Green.

Progress was made last night. All the door jams and edges of the main structure, doors and fenders were edge sealed with epoxy sealer. I will post pictures. I am hoping to spray all sealed areas with 383 CARC green after work today. Hoping. No promise but things are looking good.

New project for after my CUCV retirement. Restique only. Rust stays. Function and drivability with Safety.

I have fixed that issue in the past. I used a hole saw and cut into the inside of B pillar where the nut is located and held the nut in place and then just put a plastic cap plug in place to fill the hole. Never noticed it. Good Luck. You can weld it good and strong and adjust it where it needs...

That's the door latch. The hinge bushings and pins must be really bad. Or the door is that poorly adjusted. I would replace the strikers and get a door latch from a donor door. Properly adjusted they do open and close like a newer truck. Good Luck.

A few more pictures from the archives. I have all the parts to install. I think the roof can support this hatch with a little Dura-Plate reinforcement.

Just a few pictures from about 5 years ago. This is the turret hatch lid. A few pictures may be poor or unassigned but I wanted to show the mounting hinge.

Just a few pictures from about 5 years ago.

I always preferred the plastic tank / aluminum fin radiators. I have plow trucks with 250K miles and never had the radiators out of them. That never happened with the copper / brass radiators in years past. Some things just got better with technology. Wheel bearings, exhaust systems, and engines...

I have pictures if you would like to see it. I was going to put it on an M1009 roof just for the sake of doing it. I have a few extra roofs. Maybe I should mount it u and sell the finished roof assembly. Right now I have no time to play. But I will keep it in mind.