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Mounted the Hydromax master cylinder and brake booster today. Had to clearance the brake booster where it was interfering with the transfercase mount. Would have been reluctant to do that, but the other side already had a similar amount of material removed, so I'm sure it's alright. Test-fit...

Nope. Was a little bit reluctant to any more time than absolutely necessary under that engine while it was hanging from the forklift...

DONE with the engine-swap. At least the hard part. Big thanks to Kevin at Pacific Fabrication for letting be borrow one of their forklifts, and thanks for the hand today Brett. Picked up that forklift this morning, lifted the new engine, dropped the oilpan and pulled off pickups for the 5-ton...

Would like to know more about that insulated floor? My cab had a small plate welded on top of the rear part of the cab on the pass side, and when I cut it off to make for a more uniform hardtop mounting surface, noticed that there was a mfg number on the bottom of it. Guessing that it was part...

Hey, so Clinton, why didn't you use a servo and a ram mounted to the axle and the tie-rod? That would take practically all the load off the steering box and drag-link.

Probably just because it's empty?

Oh, you're right. I thought that was a sweet-type servo that would direct hydraulic fluid to a hydraulic cylinder that would be mounted to the axle/tie-rod. but looking closer, see that there's no ram pictured. THAT was what I think would make the best all-around setup.

Me too! Cab is down in Salinas getting painted right now, but I have a lot of work left to do before this thing will be back on the road.

Tom, I think you're misunderstanding how those servos work. It's actually taking almost all the load off of the original steering box. Personally, I think something like the kit the CCE has put together is probably just about the best way possible to adapt power steering to these vehicles.

That's a really nice looking kit! What kind of servo are you using? Will that kit work with the gear-driven 5-ton pump? Pics of kit installed? Price?

Anybody?

Bingo! Fits great now. Just need to paint the master cylinder and do a little bit of clearancing so I won't have to offset the master/booster, then drill a few holes and mount the whole Hydro-Max assembly to the chassis.

wow

Reinstalled the stock master cylinder and cycled the brake pedal linkage. The clevis/pushrod is threaded, so the geometry will change slightly, depending on how the linkage is adjusted. Not knowing how that is supposed to be adjusted, just cycled the linkage how it was adjusted when I took it...

Need to start figuring out the pedal linkage, which might only require a custom push-rod, or maybe even just a little adapter that will allow me to mate the stock clevis to one of the threaded Hydro-Max pushrods. Going to reinstall the stock master cylinder so I can cycle the linkage and see...

Yesterday: Received the new 24V backup pump, so now have got all the parts needed to figure out how to adapt this Hydro-Max setup to mah deuce. Unfortunately, the backup pump interferes with the transfercase mount to the point where I'm almost definitely going to need to cut into things to make...

Oh thanks, but I know what a PTO winches are, and how they work. Was only questioning the 'upgrade' because the 8274 is one of the best winches ever made. Would never-never-never trade one for a PTO winch, but that's just because I'm thinking more about winch performance than the restoration...

Not yet, but yes. Planning on building something like that for the box on mah deuce. Someone on here posted some pictures of some kind of grain/gravel truck that gave me some good ideas. Am also going to build an aluminum flatbed that will be sandwiched between the frame and the box. That'll...

Looks like a downgrade to me, as far as winches go. They've been making those old winches forever. Not period-correct enough for you?

The other way to approach this whole hubstep deal would be to bolt them on to the wheels using budd-style lugnuts. That would allow the hubstep to be a much larger diameter, and the inside of the hubstep could also serve as a place to stand (inside/bottom would be step number one and...