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I don't have a tach, but I'm pretty sure the idle is good. The other alternator puts out 14.4v at idle. I held the throttle open to what sounded like a cruising RPM and got 14.5v, so the alternator is definitely putting out, just not at low RPM. Is this normal?

***UPDATE*** Thanks everyone for the advice on CUCV Electric. I ordered up the full rebuild kit and followed the online instructions. The kit shipped out quickly and the instructions were easy to follow. I finished rebuilding the alternator last night, and re-installed it in the truck this...

Test didn't work. I'm starting to think that my GEN 2 is not working after all. Originally I tested the output and got 14.5v, but I was using the body as a ground. When I tested using the negative terminal on the rear Battery as a ground, I only got 12.4v (same as the rear Batt). :doh: So...

:doh: Yeah, I was testing the diode in the wrong direction. It seems to be working fine. I also checked the GEN 2 Relay, and it seems to be working fine too. I started the truck again to see if I accidentally fixed something. Still only getting 12.5v on the rear battery, while getting 14.5...

With the truck off, I have the following readings on the back of GEN 2. Readings were taken with a voltmeter using the body ground from BATT 1 (Front). #2 (25v) #1 (12.9v) + (25v) - (12.5v)

What about the diode? I found it wrapped in duct tape (not a good sign) and I have no power passing through it.

I found the fusible link. Looks fine and tested out fine. I also pulled the loom apart and verified its integrity from the 24v positive bus all the way to the passenger alternator. Whats next?

Before I tear apart the loom, do you happen to know where that fusible link is located?

For some reason the rear battery on my 1031 doesn't seem to be receiving a charge. When the truck is running, both alternators are producing 14.5 volts and the front battery is receiving 14.5 volts, however the rear battery only reads 12.5 volts. Both batteries are brand new, and I have no GEN...