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Yes.

Yes runs great and output is 120v from L0 to and of the others and 208v between L1 L2, L2 L3, and L1 L3

I stand corrected, my apologies. Very much a newbie to the mil gens.

Just went out and had a look at the reconnecting board. Actually unbolted all 12 nuts tontrmove the board and there is no neutral buss between locations 10, 11, 12, and the far left nut which has a wire running to L0. What if anything does that tell anyone? Could this have been done when the...

Ok thanks. From what I gather the 002, 003, 004, and 005 are basically the same configuration just different in size. I may be wrong on this???

Ok I get moving to wires and not doing permanent damage to the neutral buss. Smart thinking If you find your notes please post the moves for me. Where should the AVR be connected in the zig zag? L1 and L3 since that is where I would connect the leads for the output to the transfer switch?

Yes I could use a boost transformer but that would be one more piece in the puzzle that I would have to keep up with. Triple Jim: I see you are from NC, small world I am in south central VA. I would love to contact you and pick you brain about these gens.

Yes I meant the reconnecting board. Intrigued in another way, but once I get this set on a concrete pad, I don't think I would ever really want to revert back to 3 ph. What would I need to look for the AVR source? Would the weird voltage readings be on the control vot meter or at the output...

I have downloaded the manual for the AVR, and am going to study it some. Guessing I still have to do the cut and jumper on the power board also.

Assuming this is the AVR. It is a McPherson Controls SS053. Just doing a quick spec search it shows voltage ranges from 180 to 265.

Yes looks like the 24v and one of the 120v fuses are bypassed. This is the way I got it. Not sure why they are bypassed???

Ok if the AVR will handle 240v, would I just follow the youtube video of a member here and cut the bar between lug 11 and 12, the put a jumper from 12 to 2 on the power board?

Here are the pics of inside the controll panel. The blue meter is a digital Hz meter (shown running at 60Hz). Please help me understand what I am looking at. The reason I want to convert to 120/240 is that most of the stuff in my house will work with 208, my well pump will not tolerate that low...

I bought it from a scrapyard that was using it at 208v 3PH. I don't know where they got it. I will get pics of behind the control panel and post when I get off of work. There looks to be newer components in ther from what I remember. It runs like a top and does provide 120v each phase to ground...

I have just purchased a 1986 JR Hollingsworth MEP-005A. I olny paid $1400 delivered!! Currently it is 120/208 3PH. I have watched several videos for the 120/240 1PH conversion. In all of these the controll panel looks different than mine. This one only has an amp meter (broken), a voltage meter...