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If you are referring to a button clutch disc, yes those are used on the M35A2.

Tachometer maybe.

Check the schematic in Supplement 7!

That’s the root of your problem. DO NOT guess which wire is which, trace them out, the opposite end should be marked as well.

Who told you that mis information?

Highly recommend Memphis Equipment for parts support for this platform.

Are you in transfer low range? Dumb question but have to ask.

Welcome and that is a sweet dump! Hope it serves you well.

I think the front driveshaft is on the opposite side on GMT400s. Might have to swap transfer case. Also the 6.5 in ‘95 is electronic engine management, you will have to loose that.

Sounds like you are way short on engine power. Mine goes 60+ with ease. The axles have 5:38 ratio, there is no ratio that would make it slower only faster.

Old 2 cycle Detroit Diesels had that feature. Never heard of a 4 cycle Diesel engines having it. These multifuel runaways typically happen when the fuel control lever in the injection pump is gummed up from sitting for years. If you drive your truck periodically you should be fine.

Lots of civi trucks, google “Reo Gold Comet”

Sure, that is an OA-331 "Gold Comet" gasoline engine used in M35 series trucks in the 1950s. 331 cubic inches, overhead valve. Made by Reo Motors and Continental Motors

I don’t have any ideas other than that you will have to continue diagnostics to find either a vacuum leak or carburetor issues. Mine would routinely flood the carb due to float needle sticking open due to fuel trash. Then it would run rough and smoke too.

Engine in vid sounds great. Mine is a bit clattery sounding also. On the vacuum circuit, the only vacuum use during normal (no wipers) operation should be the crankcase ventilation valve. Engine vacuum is also routed to the fuel/vacuum pump, then the wipers. It’s possible the vacuum pump...

I use the SW Kem-lustral wrought iron flat black and it is perfect in every way. I source this from my local store. It might be possible to source these paints from your local store as well. I know the FS numbers are in their system.

Right 500 psi way to high even at 100 ambient.

Two reasons. When the system is opened to do the repair, air and humidity enters the system. Air is “non-condensable” meaning it can’t function as refrigerant. Moisture will cause corrosion inside the system.

Ugh something failed big time. Maybe you can find out what blew out yourself. Look for oily spots in the area you described. If something like an evaporator coil blew, you will need to find that part and either replace it yourself or supply it to the shop. They won’t have access to military...

Best part is load out what 1 hour from the house? Nice buy!