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I have a winch truck. Everything was there. But still spent over $700 on fully restoring it. The most difficult thing to find was the joints for the drive shaft. Since you are starting with nothing, factor in the PTO and controls and a clutch and trans rebuild. You will want the trans out on the...

Injector pump seal at the drive gear. Hope you didn't kill your bearings.

550watt resistors are not common items. Just sayin'. http://www.electronicsurplus.com/ward-leonard-k46645-0-347-resistor-ceramic-0-347-ohm-550w

Since there seems to be much vodoo and confusion in the selection of oil for the winches, I decided to research it during the course of my rebuild. After reading all the claims and snake oil, the advocacy of greases, specialty lubes and common lubes, I went to the source for a recommendation...

Since there seems to be much vodoo and confusion in the selection of oil for the winches, I decided to research it during the course of my rebuild. After reading all the claims and snake oil, the advocacy of greases, specialty lubes and common lubes, I went to the source for a recommendation...

I have the correct stamps to do it myself. But it is a fiddly job and time consuming if you don't have the machine and have to do it by hand like I do. If they will do your plates for less than $50, you are money ahead. (And VPW doesn't have the winch truck weight and dimension plate.)

I need a m37 weight and data plate w winch if you have one.

Well, didn't get the winch assembled today, but did get a lot done. The story thus far. My truck came with an LU-4 winch when I bought it. It, like everything else on my truck has been used, abused and then left unmaintained. I found another winch at a swap meet that was in very good...

I have never tried MIG welding aluminum. I TIG weld it often. Slower, but great control. ANY breeze will blow the gas away and cause issues. Always set up a windbreak. And as with ANY welding process, the only way to get good is to practice.

I thought I has overpriced at $75/hr! Wish I could charge that here! Fixing or doing all the work to put a different bed on would be about the same time for me. I'd fix it.

The M38 has a Garand. My M37 saw duty through the 60's, therefore I chose the M14 (over the M16 ) I like wood stocks. As far as pics, I have no way to post them here. My phone won't do it and I have no computer or internet at home. Don't have cable TV, either.

Finally got the one accessory for my truck that I always felt it was missing. An M14 to go in the rifle mount. Now to find a couple bandoliers to hang off a corner. Might even get the winch rebuild finished this weekend and get it back on the truck. Anyone who thinks an LU4 is expensive to buy...

I used the correct split rivets for the fender rubber. They were available at my local hardware store. I used drive pins for the hood welting. (I was able to reuse the originals, but they are available from McMaster-Carr.)

VPW for the plywood. Many sources for the upholstery. You CAN fix the springs if you need.

I use both major suppliers and have had good and bad luck with both. I tend to MWM as the packing of parts for shipping is much better

Since it was a contact truck, maybe a utility body put on it would be cool. Enjoy your project!

I may not work on that metric stuff often enough, but it is good to have foreknowledge of the holes you will need to work with.

A COMPLETE rebuild of my radiator by the local commercial radiator shop was $140. I have the correct radiator and it isn't some almost correct wimpy thin thing for a lot more money.

I have had very bad experience with every Omix thing I've ever wasted money on. Your milage may vary.

Moved to early October. As to the "Dodge Museum", that is not somewhere people are allowed to go. I love the sign at the driveway. "The answer is no!"