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I purchased everything from a combination of vendors and members on ss.
I did the work an axle at a time. Really doesn't make much difference but I found it made more sense to put a axle on cribbing and do both ends then move to the next axle. 2cents
Also don't forget that just because you pushed in the "stop" cable doesn't mean the fuel shutoff lever moved to the on position in the ip. Easy to check by just pulling the cover off.
Fuel Density Compensator
From TM 9-2910-226-34, Direct Support and General Support Maintenance Manual (Including Repair Parts and Special Tools Lists)
For PUMP, FUEL, METERING AND DISTRIBUTING, ASSEMBLY 2910-178-1185, 2910-759-5410, 2910-908-6320, 2910-968-6317
AND 2910-116-8241
"The fuel...
If you have a local shop that does cylinder head work they should have what amounts to a over size belt sander they use on warped aluminum heads. They could run the bottom of the compressor on to make sure it is flat. Not sure what they might charge. 2cents
I did mine a little different. I ran a feed from the magnetic start relay to a mil style 15 amp circuit breaker mounted next to the factory breaker. I wanted to keep the convoy light electrical on it own circuit.
Mine drain down ok. I just always drive my vehicles 15 ~ 20 miles, up to operating temp, then drop the oil as soon as I shut down. I pull the plug on the filter base to make sure as much oil as possible is drained out of the cans before I break them loose.
The color combo and general scheme look like
Summer US & Europe-Verdant
Forest Green, Light Green, Sand, and Black
(34079, 34151, 30277, 3703)
http://sites.google.com/site/merdccamo/_/rsrc/1251908894435/home/merdc-photos-1/svdocks.jpg
Unless there is a lot of crud like some kind of solids in the oil that you drain I wouldn't pull the pan 2cents
You only need to remove the cans themselves. No need to remove the entire mounting assembly.
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