Search results

Your running this after a single phase conversion? Was it actually opening the contactor as it cycled?

Glassk. yes the one image is for precision units only, where you are transferring load from one set to another, one coming online to match another. You still dont need any switch box os other special cables when using utility sets

I really need to figure out how to add photos so they dont get auto resized look at 2-6 and 2-7 of TM5-6115-465-12

The only thing needed for paralleling is the cable. Load is usually ran right to main lugs on the genset. That box looks like a powerplant box for switching between two gensets for maintanence or malfunction. Basically a manual transfer switch.

I am almost positive that all the 004-009 parallel cables are the same

One small thing. The Solenoid is rising and staying up. I am clear on that. But is the throttle arm on the injection pump rising up ( close to 90* of the injection pump)

I see no NSN numbers on anything. Looks commercial. Poke around the actual gen head for a ID tag

If you pull injectors you can get in there and kroil it, or plug the hole into the head with a greasy/oil rag or paper towel to catch any debris if your worried.

Well sounds like an IP rebuild is in your future if it tuns fine with a swap. Either the original pump is installed wrong somehow or your pump needs some TLC

Having a resizing problem. Resistor shows in stock a few places. Hmmm its the forum software. Same image uploaded elsewhere is fine. 5905-01-046-6851 5905-01-046-6851 303-185137 58756 RESISTOR,VARIABLE,NON WIRE WOUND NE 5 KAMPI COMPONENTS CO. INC. 5905-01-046-6851 3055472-5194...

the coatings/plating on the strainer/strainer tube/ and strainer tube holder assembly in the tank are down right nasty. They build up some nasty stuff in the extreme humidity down here. If it is not rusting, it is white flakey growth, or green slime (not algae) that develops on those parts...

I am still working on this. I have info coming to me, and I will either just resend it to you, or attempt to digitize it and make it into a PDF.

http://www.airliners.net/aviation-forums/tech_ops/read.main/429/

Flat 4 gas... Wood be a good candidate for a wood-gas burner

I was going to say siezed pintle in the nozzles, then I saw jerry already got to them and they are good. Only thing I can really think of fuel wise that could make it run one day, sit, then not run later. Verify the arm is raising, and tie that sucker up a little less than the max it will go...

120/240 1 PH is fine. whether the load is 120 or 240 should not matter for adjusting the breaker. I dont think sewerzuk got much out of adjusting his IIRC...

Could be an 002a a/c reconnection box on a 003a chassis. Fortunately everything but the breaker is the same. Look at the breaker for part numbers or amp ratings.

Double / triple check your fuse. (I had one 2 weeks ago with a perfect blade inside and no continuity. Drove me nuts) Check the cap on the VR and all the connections. I vote triplejim to re-engineer a dc-vr! More robust and hopefully cheaper than NOS :)

I agree with jim on the synthetic, but I have had to switch to it down here on the coast. The 90%+ humidity foams up virtually every oil I have tried. My buddy is an Amsoil rep and I have liked their 30w and Quincy's Quincip.