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Yea 5 solids is a dead controller. Should be able to simply power down and plug in the new one. Make sure the ground connection at the bottom case bolt is good… CTIS usually has issues with air leakage, and since it is trying to control the air bombs we call tires with a pressure gauge and a...

The PPD isn’t an issue as the only current that goes thru it, is the current consumed by the truck via the dash power panel and that only changes if you add load… the PPD does serve as a tie point between alternator and batteries, but the 14 and 28 volt leads from alt and batteries are simply...

Looks like a crimp blank that mis-fired? there are pass-thru ports with rubber covers in them for all the cab wiring just down each side of the engine tunnel at the front, both left and right...

The alt and batt are a system. The alt will not work right if there are connection and battery issues, so you must insure those things are correct before you can call it a bad alt.

The dual volt alt must have a proper connection to 12v in the middle of the 24v battery, with decent battery condition to regulate properly. It is not just a regulator it is also a balancer. If it does not see proper battery connection/response, this it will derate… your loose connection at...

Ok, looks like someone already downsized the bank to group 24 batts. To drop to 2 batts is easy. Simply remove the terminals on a front(front of truck) or rear pair and tape over the disconnected terminals… innermost terminals are 24v, middle 4 tied together are 12v outermost are ground… You...

Group 31’s need box modifications, dropping to a pair if the 6t batts that are in there is probably the easiest. You may be able to charge and load test your 4 and find you have a serviceable pair right there already… since the truck has more 12 than 24v load, the 12v pair is often the pair...

Yea the dual volt alt was not the best idea, paired with the monster battery bank it was the kind of problem that class action lawsuits are made of in the real world. The 100A dual volt with the 14v side fully loaded only puts out @ 1930W compared to the 2800W of a straight 24V@100A alt. With...

Absolutely do NOt do that! First off you are an A1 and don't have a governor or run solenoid to hook to. Second of all they went to great length to insure the alternator was kept offline until after the engine is running(K11 that powers the alternator is controlled by the oil pressure switch...

Your assumption sounds about right. The reg is probably an issue. you should be able to disconnect the EXC wire from the reg to keep it offline and drive it home on battery power alone...

and in some cases rental fees to unlock all the features:)

The polarity protection device/LBCD on an A1 is located inboard of the spare tire. it is in between alt and batteries and its 4 connections connect 6 major cables to batts, alt and cab, for 14 and 28V respectively. if you have a manual disconnect switch and relay(box to the rear of the battery...

those voltages sound OK(maybe a little low). also confirm all your connections between battery and alternator are clean and secure. intermittent connections to the main load(battery) could cause voltage spikes within the system...

There is no ECU voltage reg… the ECU and TCU use raw truck power. If it is throwing a high voltage code the alternator is outputting high voltage(bad alternator regulator?), or the electronic control unit has a fault. What are the truck voltages? should be within 1/2Volt of 14.1/28.2V at...

Yea mine still doesn’t have much weight on it. It is setting in dirt right now so I ran some of my measurement numbers I used for my cad drawing. I come up with just under 55.5 to the top of the 6” upper frame rail As mine sets mostly bare… It is 21” from square axle housing face to tread...

I can check when I get home this evening, but this of course will vary with weight in the rear and mine is a bare chassis with the start of a habitat build...

That is probably the simplest option…

Ok, that looks like a config for separate hi and low pressure switches, and not a trinary switch(both hi and low combined)… you either need a new receiver/dryer with dual switches, a new harness to match your dryer with trinary switch, or to modify your existing harness and add a pigtail to...

So replace the trinary switch with one compatible with your harness… Condenser fit looks great…

Yea all my vehicles are 25 years old and still going strong:)