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If you are nowhere near saltwater then it isn't as big of a deal to use stainless bolts with aluminum bodywork. If you live somewhere continuously damp, or especially near salt, then it's a bad idea to mix stainless and aluminum. If you aren't familiar with it, look up "galvanic corrosion" and...

The M1097R is a recapitalization program truck, upgraded from a different version into a heavy variant. Not an actual factory variant of the truck. If yours has a 3 speed, use M1097A1 in the manuals. If yours has a 4 speed, use M1097A2 in the manuals. Anywhere it says DEX II use DEX III. It...

I pretty much gave up trying to keep track of mileage in mine. Half the time I drive it it's either short trips, towing trailers, driving off road, or going through parades and such, so it isn't going to be consistent anyway. The few times I did keep track, it was between 11 and 12mpg for just...

yes, they should just flip upwards when working properly. The end twist is to adjust cable slack, and not something that will move when there is tension on the assembly.

Also to add, it isn't uncommon for the filter/dryer to be installed backwards/reverse flow by the military. Everything still works, but it's not really doing it's job properly. Any time you open up the system you should be replacing the filter/dryer anyway, and they are relatively cheap...

Use a pressure washer to remove most of the flaked CARC, and a scraper for the big chunks. Really yuo don't need to scuff it much; the CARC will soak up new paint like you wouldn't believe.

The early fording kit uses a different bracket than the later units with fender mount condensers. Not sure the specifics though

Lube order says OE/HDO-10 That's just a 10 weight oil. 10 weight oil is equivalent to ISO 32 hydraulic oil. Hy gard is between ISO 46 and 68 for viscosity It would probably work, but is a heavier weight, so might be a little slow, or might not. Low temp/arctic oil was OEA, which I can't find...

12 gauge is good for 20 amps, 14 gauge is good for 15 amps in the U.S. Just using "12 gauge high current 14 gauge low current" doesn't really cover what kinds of high or low current levels there might be; a 30 or 50 amp connection on the 240V side (or even a 30 or 50 amp 120V plug for an RV)...

Yes, water pump above the crank pulley, belts going off to the alternator and power steering pump (hidden)

There is no AC in that picture. As far as I know "factory" aircon didn't start until the M1114 series ECV trucks. Some 3 speed trucks did get the RedDot aircon, but that was an add on, and definitely not in your picture.

Cam is a member here, and his advice is always helpful.

Yeah, that looks kind of like I expected from the symptoms. You have a few options. 1:Try to rebuild the box by cleaning it up and replacing any fried components 2: replace the start box with new (you will need to also get matching TSU if using a different version of the box) 3: replace with...

14V tap won't affect anything in your truck. 3 Speeds trucks originally came with a 60 amp 24V only alternator, with nothing in the truck utilizing 12V. Need to stop focusing on the alternator; your erratic voltage is a symptom of the issue, not the cause in and of itself.

The rear battery is the one wired with the negative terminal to the DC shunt on the side of the battery box, and yes, it is towards the rear of the vehicle (if the batteries are properly installed and wired according to the diagrams) On some 3 speed trucks the 14V tap got wired directly to...

I usually just tell people I borrowed it from work...

Just to clarify, do you have a 3 speed truck or a 4 speed truck? Some 3 speed trucks have the 14V terminal on the 200 amp alternator wired to a ground point instead of the rear battery positive, so if that's the case then seeing 0V at it would be expected (not 0.8V, but sometimes weird readings...

According to the NEC if the generator and equipment are located on the same trailer or vehicle, then a grounding rod is not required. Generator on a trailer and equipment on the trailer doesn't really give an electrical path to shock someone if properly installed to the trailer (bonded...

Stop just throwing parts. Verify whether you have 24V at the solenoid when hot. If you do it may be a fuel system issue, if not it's electrical. At that point if it's electrical it may be a failure inside the start box. I'm not as up to speed on them, but if nothing else you can pull it...

Another possibility for an early serial number truck is the rear mount stud for the generator is sheared off and allowing the generator and PS to flex forward a little under load. I had this happen and could watch the belt move when the glow plugs were pulsing Just something else to check...