Search results

Do you have an oven that can fit these parts? Bake them at 500°F+ which will burn or harden any coatings and make them much easier to remove by media blasting. Dunking them in a heated sodium hydroxide solution will have similar results but requires disposal afterwards.

Is it smoking when you crank it? It doesn't take much water to make a diesel engine not start. I had some Cat C9 engines that would regularly get water in the intake from failed aftercoolers. When I wasn't able to be present the dealers would tell us the engines needed to be overhauled for $40k...

Was it a rear cylinder? Most of the head gasket failure occur on the rear cylinders.

An important characteristic of a plain bearing is galling resistance which aluminum does not have. Brass isn't so great either. Aluminum bronze would be a better choice. Plastics can work very well as they're able to be embedded with lubricants and are inherently resistant to galling. Plastics...

An aluminum bushing?!?

Also, use the Ultra black. It's less permeable to oil than the old red and blue silicones.

Yes, RTV only. You'll need to buy a oil pan gasket kit to get the seal for the rear bearing cap but toss the cork rail gaskets. You don't want to use valve cover gaskets because they take compression set. The double ended studs make it very difficult to retorque the bolts when this happens.

The gentle tap with a big hammer is an interesting phenomenon. Some of my tugboats have a ~6" diameter 20' long solid steel shaft connecting the engine to the drive. The shaft uses split cylindrical roller bearings which use 10-32 screws to clamp the inner race to the shaft. They have a very...

I don't know anything about this transmission but... Roller bearings don't like to run unloaded. If there isn't a constant force pushing on them that can cause trouble. A plain bearing is just as happy loaded as it is unloaded.

I would drop the oil pan and make sure you don't have main bearing web cracks before getting too invested in head gaskets. Otherwise, it's just a matter of getting parts out of the way. I pull and install heads on these engines with the exhaust manifolds attached. Watch out for the stud that...

Low viscosity epoxy penetrating primers work the best for marginal prep situations. https://international.brand.akzonobel.com/m/200660794b0322bc/original/Interseal_1036_eng_A4_20181015.pdf Or https://www.ppgpmc.com/products/amerlock-sealer

OP may be looking for better corrosion resistance than OEM.

Oh yeah, the alternator/generator is downstream of the ammeter because so the ammeter can show power out of the battery but also show power into the battery from the alternator which indicates charging.

If you want fasteners that last you need to look for fasteners with inorganic zinc coatings often called zinc-aluminum flake. Trade names include Dacromet and Geomet. Specific product lines include Armor Coat. https://growel.com/blog/understanding-the-popular-types-of-dacromet-coating/ This is...

There is a good chance you have the wrong lift pump. Take a look at the lever. The diesel uses the straight arm, first pic. The gas engines have a curve to the arm, second pic.

All of the power from the battery passes through the ammeter and then branches off to the various electrical systems. This has to be done so the ammeter can see the total power draw.

You're going to need to give us some more information.

Rubber hose can make a perfectly acceptable long lasting replacement IF you get the right materials. SAE J30R9 and 10 hoses will last indefinitely in.

I tried the aftermarket 850 brass radiator and it was junk. I have an aluminum one with plastic tanks that is much better. Lately there are a lot more aftermarket options including welded aluminum units.