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If I remember right that is the capacitor that will knock down voltage spikes on the passenger side alternator...I don't think that's much of an issue unless you still have the military radio in the truck still...should lower radio interference. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

I think I have a grasp of what you're going through since I just did the same thing with alternators and belts...you can get the belts to tight as in they will wipe out the bearing in the new alternators and possibly wear out the pulley grooves...there is a belt gauge out there for tightness...

I think they do make something like that but this one doesn't look right, to new of a year too.

looks like the pump has let the smoke out...can you get one out your way?

Yes thats low...I do ask though if the line going to the trans is ok as if it is leaking the vacuum will be low...unless you have it hooked not to the tee but on the actual pump which is what you wrote but just want to make sure.

80 sounds good, with my 4 foot extension that's probably all I'd get out of it! I am a torque freak though...have the nice torque to yield snap on half inch wrench and quarter inch one too use them all the time! One thing overlooked is to make sure the surface of the trans and engine is very...

They should be...check the site that was posted above that has the rebuild kits...they may have one available as well. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Crap....got mixed up with the 350!! Dang, I gotta dust off my rebuild books!! I think the first one I did was in 1991. The governor # 4 has the gear end though that is that same ugh...Didn't mean to misinform. After a while they all look the same...just act like a robot and rebuild them!

I forgot to say when you get the governor cover off check the gear on the end of the governor...it is plastic and might have sharp edges on it meaning it is about to strip out...could replace that too if it's goin out...make sure the springs are on the weights too.

The governor cover is just a big o ring...might want to get a new cover as it might not be round anymore to be leaking...not a usual leak unless someone took it off and bent it...I have seen that a bunch....it should have a good edge to tap a few times to come out though so it shouldn't be that...

They bend them all!!! I don't understand it either since they all have the same key and they have the slave cable to jump start them...mine didn't have keys or batteries like the other 10 that they had that month! They spared none from being bent.

It's been a bit since my last actual known repair but finally got the last 3 done today...I replaced the oil cooler lines which actually went very easy...the lines are not bent the same as stock so I'll have to make my own mount for the back of the engine...the other was replacing the driveshaft...

Rebuild all day long!! Just did both of mine...there's a sticky in the cucv section about alternator repair and rebuild.

Yes that's what I wanted but I didn't think a 6.5 inch rim would work well with that...I literally just picked up a brand new Ford set last night...wish I would have known the originals were bent up before I bought new tires! Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

I see a hitch on the back end...you mind posting some pics of how they have it mounted in there? I have the pintle on it now but could use a hitch.

I have the same seat color...I need to find foam and the lower cover as well.

The 3 little round thingies are capacitors that were hooked up to the wiper motor...that wire I'm not sure...I'm not sure where that's at! Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Mine has 16s on it... they're 6.5 wide...I put a 265/75 16 on them and they fit great...from what I've found there's a ford rim out there that is the same lug pattern but a bit wider, I think they're 7 inch...I do think that the one ton gm trucks in 16 inch will fit as well...this tire size was...

I put a piece of paper over mine on all my cars...no reason anyone needs to see it!!

That tool can be great to hold the flywheel for sure....if you haven't used one then here's a tip...get someone to hold it while you torque the bolts...doing both is interesting at best with a fair warning that if the tool slips it turns that new sharp tooth flywheel into a knuckle removing saw...