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Evidently, it's not controlled by the SRS switch when it's connected directly to a 456 wire, of which there can be multiples. The 456 wires are apparently getting the 24V that also goes to the TSU, Fuel Cutoff, Glow Plugs, Cold Advance Switch, to name a few. When the 568 wire is connected...

Agreed. Unfortunately, the last army goober who worked on it, jacked it up. It may have been done on purpose, so they could turn it in for a new truck. In any case, it wasn't a quick find. I just decided to check wiring while I was disconnecting items to see what might be causing the issue...

To all those who offered ideas to resolve the electrical problem with this truck, thanks very much. I’d like to especially thank Cam with Camotek. He was very helpful, particularly with reading the wiring diagram, which has incredibly small print. The issue was one wire being connected where...

We are using the wiring diagrams in the TM.

I have disconnected a lot of wires and cables, including 5A, in trying to diagnose this issue. I have a few more things to try, but am leaning toward doing that with a different alternator installed. It's possible the one currently (no pun intended) installed has a bad diode.

Yep. A couple of us here on SS are looking at the wiring diagrams in the TM.

No, we don't modify our trucks in any way. We get them running, use them for 18-24 months, then sell them as an alternate income stream.

The are no vapors coming out of the dipstick tube. The fuel cut off solenoid is functioning. I have tested it. There is a mysterious power source “leaking” just enough voltage/amps to keep the fuel cut off/control box solenoids engaged after the SRS switch is turned off. More likely is...

Yes, the ribbed one is a no-brainer. If the other two were switched, the truck would start in the wait/run position.

I have more data, but left my notes at the shop. Tried a lot of options, including isolating each wire/cable to the alternator. We started removing the negative battery cable to see if the truck would shut down, before pulling 54A lead. When we had the large positive cable disconnected from...

Vehicle kept running, even with the negative cable removed from the battery.

Confirmed - not switched

Zip. When I pulled 29A, it wouldn't do anything at the ignition switch.

Interesting. If I disconnect the under dash PCB plug while it's running, the engine very well may shut off. I'm not certain that would point to a bad shut off solenoid. The shut off solenoid clicks whenever I plug and unplug the 54A lead when it has power. The clicking is an indication that...

Pretty sure they are not swit Pretty sure they are not switched. Plan to confirm tomorrow.

This truck is straight from the military through only one stop (our resource). We don't make modifications to our trucks. We buy them, use them for a minimum of 18 months, then sell them as an alternate income stream for the museum. The less time and money put into each truck to get it into...

This was purchased as a non-runner by the museum where I volunteer. Just got it running this past week.. So, the answer to your question is "no, sir".

No, verified. Also, tried another ignition switch with same result

We are in agreement regarding the smart box. It is my buddy who went down that trail. I keep veering away from an issue with the regulator, because the voltage output is right on the money. I will try your suggestions. Thanks. BTW, what will pulling wire 29A prove/suggest?

That's what we thought. Switched it out. Same results.