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Need to hitch a ride for a couple parts from Central Texas to Ohio. Aluminum parts are boxed, 45" x 57" x 9" and just under 90lbs. Let me know if you know someone who can help!
I believe that's how the big restoration companies do it, but they have equipment to inject and compress the layers under high heat & pressure. If I could find the equipment and materials to do it myself, I would try it.
Installed all new turn light bulbs and they still don’t ring out. I’m taking a lead from a hot (24v) source and attaching it to the unknown wires one by one and checking all corners of the truck. I’m sure I’m missing something simple here, but just can’t identify it.
Tail lights work, as do all running lights. Don't see any cut wires. Wondering if my "ringing-out" test needs something else connected for it to work, such as one of the other wires being grounded, etc.
Well, I narrowed down the wires that go to the hazard flasher (325 A & B) and light switch (22A and 467B, both of which get 24V when Run switch on). I then connected a lead to 24v and turned the light switch on, touching the 24v lead to each of the remaining unidentified wires. No lamp unit bulb...
In case it helps anyone.... I was able to replace the broken squirrel cage with this.(Perfect match)
https://www.tacbusparts.com/BW-1-Blower-wheel-3-1-4-x-3-3-4
Well, I narrowed the cut wires down to the 9 wires (two turn into one for some reason) to the Turn Signal (Directional Indicator) Switch. After studying the Wiring Schematics, I can't see where each wire goes. I checked voltage, and there is one wire that has 24VDC. Is there a way to identify...
Removed the rear evaporator and see it's a broken squirrel cage that's rattling around... reducing the airflow as well. Found this.... wondering if it'll adapt to fit...
Trying to ID this "J10 Ignition Interface" dongle that interrupts 29T (going to the TCM) with a blue wire that leads to another group of wires which have been cut during demilitarization. I could either bypass it (plugging 29T back into itself) or just cap the blue "J10 Ignition Interface" wire...
I picked up a new roll of roof insulation and am ready to cut to fit my M1165A1 REV Truck. Does anyone have a template or the dimensions they can share with me? I have one shot to get this right, so am hoping I get the correct measurements. Thanks!
Anyone know when the Warthogs will be available at GovPlanet? Ha
https://www.defensenews.com/air/2025/06/27/us-air-force-to-retire-all-a-10s-cancel-e-7-under-2026-spending-plan/
I unbolted it and lifted it to look underneath and it would only go up so far before putting too much stress on the AC lines. I blew some compressed air through everything to clear out some residual dust but was not able to tell if anything was broken. AC system is tight and full, so I want to...
Trying to identify this rattling noise coming from the Rear AC unit. The overall front and rear system blows cold and compressor runs fine. No leaks.
Think it’s the blower motor? If so, can that be replaced without disturbing the refrigerant lines?
See video for example of the noise:
Yes, I lined the scribes up as with a new pump and it ran without blowing white smoke, but a little rough. I let it get to operating temp and adjusted the pump a hair to the passenger side and it sounds like a new truck. Slightly retarded, just like me.
Reached out to Pensacola Diesel and Jeremy looked at my video and ID'd the issue immediately: Injection Pump Timing was retarded (engine was not burning all the fuel). With his instruction and this magical tool, I was able to precisely set the timing and now the M1165A1 purrs like a kitten...
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