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I don't care about their claims. I've never read them. What I have done is drive cross country several times with a scan tool plugged into my Toyota while I towed triple the rated capacity and Royal Purple engine oil had my average temperature down by close to 20 degrees over Rotella. It's slick...

You jest, but in truth, I'm putting Royal Purple in it this time. It will measurably improve my MPGs, but I won't notice because I don't pay attention. I know all the shiny crap I put on this truck is lowering the resale value, but that's a problem for whoever nabs it when I'm gone.

Been collecting stuff since I noticed the drip. Nice, bright diff cover to keep company with my nice, bright suspension bushings. Somebody bought it for a Dana and it didn't fit. Their loss, my gain. Looking at this brings a thought to mind. I always seal inboard of the fasteners so oil can't...

There's a hydroboost master cylinder on Rock Auto for five bucks. Somebody should probably go grab that.

Not CUCV specific. On clogged washers, I've always just back flowed the system with a compressed air nozzle. In most every vehicle ever, there's a screen on the washer pump down in the tank that's got a bunch of crud caked up on it.

Yeah, it's OE for the CUCV. The radio it was attached to was so heavy, I could feel the difference when I removed it.

I dunno what they look like on the pickup. I recently replaced the u-bolts on my Blazer and when I didn't know what size to get, I just crawled under there with a HFT micrometer. Here are your options...

I had wanted to mount it in the window, but it appears that it will not fit without more modification than I care to do, plus with my luck sudden side loading would cause it to bash my glass out. For now, it's secured and out of the way. Will figure out a hard mount solution when the daily highs...

Oh, I've got desert camo webbing on the way already. Not too worried about keeping things OEM. Just generally in the spirit of milspec with a little flavor and quality of life improvements.

Scrubbed the pioneer kit rack down and decided the straps were too dried up to be trusted in the desert sun, so I cut them off. Getting replaced with ratchet straps. The rack just got a coat of Rapco 686. The retainers were attached to L-bracket adapters, so I removed them. I believe in the...

I picked up a HMMWV pioneer kit awhile ago and pulled it out recently. Axe handle was chunked out and it had a pretty good wobble, so I rehung my first axe head today. That job was a lot harder than I expected it to be and the end results are pretty ugly, but it's rock solid. Fingers crossed it...

I'm missing one of those little tabs that hold the hard lines to the manifold, and not LMC, nor Hillbilly Wizard, nor CUCVRUS has spares, so take care not to lose them. If you cut, beat, and drill them out of sheet, let me know and I'll buy some from you.

I found an aluminum silicone composite gasket from a company called Lube Locker. Ought to save me from smearing RTV all over my pretty cast iron diff cover.

No need for drama. Get the inside diameter of the rad hose, get a hard joiner with a sensor port in it, cut the hose in half, clamp it onto the joiner, and install your sensor. Sounds simple enough. Sounds like that's what you wanted to do. Go for it. They make some pretty slick gauge pods that...

If it's your truck and you're keeping it forever, I reckon it doesn't really matter where you put the sensor. You'll get an idea of what's normal for whatever you end up with and you'll know if something is going wrong. Don't worry about upsetting people with your modifications. It's your truck...

Yeah, I just noticed it dripped on the pavement where I was doing the hub. I resealed it last year and if it dripped once in a few hours, it has dripped hundreds of times. I used nothing but sealant on it last time, but evidently, I didn't get it clean and dry enough, and made a mess of the job...

Does anybody make rubberized steel 10 bolt diff gaskets?

So the hub I replaced is fine, but the one on the other side was getting so hot, it was probably just shy of glowing in the dark. Naturally, every single part was seized and I mean every single part. The big hammer did a whole lot of sweet talking. The grease was like clay and the bearings were...

I'm all for not pouring chemicals in the ground, but the vast majority of what comes out of your radiator is going to be water, after the initial draining, and it feels like an unnecessary hassle to have to haul a dozen buckets of rusty water to a disposal center.

Open the drain valve on the bottom of the radiator, stick a garden hose in the filler neck, turn the water on, and let the truck idle until you're satisfied. Shut the truck off, shut the water off, remove the hose, close the drain valve, fill the radiator with antifreeze, start the truck again...