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Please guys, stay on-topic! (I know... it's difficult to resist...)

Yes, anemic... among other reasons because in 1990 they were still using the bias-ply tires - in a big sandbox, where everyone wants radials!

Now, that is good news! Congrats!![thumbzup]

IF.... :wink: (Who would want to miss such opportunity...?)

How much for those, Steve?

That dark area between second and first looks suspicious to me... Over-heated? We have learned already that 2nd has a tendency to seize to the mainshaft. ... Which may affect the 2nd-3rd sleeve as well - causing the keys to shear and the sleeve to expand or even split open. All that could...

Ahh... mystery solved, then!:-) If not done yet - and while you wait for parts, take a few minutes to check caster angle. We want +3° at least, better +4°.

:ditto:

We will see........ (in two weeks!);):)

No special seals required.

I would contact Jason at OKC-Auction Services jason@okcauctionservices.com, and ask for a quote. G.

So you choose the cheaper option, for the gas engines? (since this link would be the rad. for the 6.2L, @ $198.49) Just wondering how it did fit- and perform - if there was a difference at all? G.

If Plan B still was to replace the whole axle housing, then I don't see the lack of room as a problem, really. Just prepare to pull the existing rear end from under the truck and fix it where it is much more comfortable to work on. I know, it sounds like much more work but: 1st, the necessary...

See post #101....

See it here... And I have found that same NSN in other charts also, so I say yes, they are the same. G.

The obvious question: What is different between those two - other than the static timing mark, maybe?

That's what I think is happening. According to the book the A3 comes with a screen/strainer at the end of the pickup tube. If there is enough dirt in there it will soon be clogged again. One way to keep going is blowing air into that tube, at elbow #25. Best if he could make a stop somewhere...

It's been seven weeks now since the OP logged-on to the site, last time. Let's hope he returns and takes care of those links.

Nothing really "special", besides a mid-size bearing puller and maybe a small 15-ton shop press, if you had to replace the large gears on the countershaft.

Basics first: check all battery posts and ground connection. Then measure/confirm each battery's voltage; 12.7 V at least. Edit: Ha, Steve, you typed faster!:-)