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FYI, no bump stops in the chassis-tech bags, mine were delivered today…:)

They don’t have a duckbill, just a plastic snap-on output horn/elbow. If one is making a different noise, there may be something in the horn or the valve core/sliding valve that is effecting airflow when it is in dump mode.

I believe Superman can reprogram them. The dump valves are noisy, kind of a higher pitched woosh as they dump air. Do they all sound the same? The front axle valve is on the passenger side of the transmission inside the frame rail, the rear axle valves are back over the axles. Yes it dumps...

Its in the manual, item number 6 in this screenshot located under the screw on cover (#3)…

Ok, for the dryer purge valve, another possibility as it is triggered by air sent from the governor when it unloads the compressor. If the governor is leaking air down that line it could be forcing that purge valve to leak. You can disconnect that 1/4” airline from the bottom of the dryer and...

If you are just using shop air to charge the tanks before start, you are probably not introducing much moisture. The giveaway would be if you get any moisture out of the tank drains. If you are not getting any moisture out the tank drains then you are probably not admitting enough moisture to...

Yours should be adjustable. The governor is on top of the air compressor, unscrew the white plastic cap and screw in the standard screw head a little with a screwdriver to raise the governor cutout pressure, then test it like in your video. Repeat untill it cuts out at 125...

One of the first rules of electrical troubleshooting, besides not letting the magic smoke out, is that voltage is only good if measured good under load. The tiniest fragment of a crappy connection will still pass full voltage throughout the circuit untill current starts to flow when it is...

24v at the solenoid = fan OFF. No voltage at the solenoid = fan ON.. so when you unplug the sensor the power at the solenoid should disappear, which wpuld be perfectly normal. It is also normal for the solenoid to energize when you turn on the ign switch and to de-energize and vent air every...

Yep, unplug the sender or selenoid. To remove fan air and engage the clutch, that is of course with a working solenoid...

No it should seal between purges. All the water and oil snot exit thru that purge valve it is either dirty or has a bad seal. There is a check valve on the output of the dryer to the wet tank. So when the engine shuts down the supply side including the dryer should empty.

No the air goes thru the dryer on its way from the compressor to the wet tank. It then uses the stored pressure from the compressor process to purge the separated moisture when the compressor unloads.

yep, dust plugs in the caging holes… What Keith said is a good idea, except in order to do this long term, you either need to provide supplemental air, or cage the brake springs… They will stay disengaged as long as the air lasts, but when it leaks away they will re-engage(and the park handle...

Don't put them away wet… after immersion, ride them enough to get them warm enough to dry out. If it is below,freezing, they will freeze, if they set for any length of time, they will rust/fuse…

Well if there is more than 85 PSI in the tanks. You should hear the solenoid send air to release the fan clutch when it is energized, and it should cutoff supply and vent the line to the clutch, releasing the air and engaging the clutch. You can also disconnect the airline right on top of the...

Or is it this one? :)

Thats not my power panel, i own an A0. That is a pic of the bottom of a brand new plain A1 power panel and frame. I keep it in my gallery for reference to show people where the ign relays and power test points are located when helping people troubleshoot issues. The A1 used a printed circuit...

They probably pulled the door markers because they proved to be such a PITA:) I can see where mine have been chaffed/damaged/repaired in several spots.

The 24v ign relay K1 should have 4 terminals on its pin 30. TL156, 512, 665 and 709. That is the 24v battery side. K1 pin 87 should have 3 terminals. TL157, 667 and 711. This is the 24v ign side…

CB70 is the main power feed to the main light switch. The main light switch in turn feeds several other circuit breaker circuits CB 54, 65, 73 and 74. As well as various other lights and circuits. It could be a combination of bad circuits or bulbs(does it have LEDs?) that are drawing too much...