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Another thing to look at is the modulator itself. Is it an "adjustable" unit ? You can see a small slotted screw inside the hose connection (remove hose and look inside) . If it is adjustable then try and screw in or out the adjuster. Moving the screw in will increase modulator pressure. Moving...
Yes your correct. When the vacuum modulator receives no or low vacuum it thinks the engine is at WOT (wide open throttle) . The governor weights then controls all upshifts. I must have been having a "fuzzy brain" moment ! Probably just took my pain pills.
First off I would disconnect the vacuum modulator hose and run the truck and see how it shifts. It should shift like "right now !" . BAM, BAM, BAM. If it doesn't then the problem is in the transmission. If it does (shift right away) then your getting "to much" vacuum to the modulator valve. Then...
It's not uncommon for the "D" turbo to leak a bit of oil at idle. If it goes away when driving I would leave it alone. If on the other hand it is causing blue smoke all the time then it's time to replace the turbo. I haven't been able to find a place that will rebuild the "D" turbos . There are...
Well after tearing down 3 Injection pumps and measuring everything I can honestly say the only difference between the LDS and LDT pumps I found is the different springs for the governor assembly and the settings on the "Smoke Limit Cam" . The smoke limit cam adjusts the amount of fuel flowing at...
Your not kidding about there being no rust ! That is one nice clean truck ! I used a "steam cleaner" on mine when I replaced the engine. Then painted everything with "primer" and then flat black paint.
I found out why there is a circular groove cut into this area. There is a very small hole drilled from the groove to the exhaust port. This passage then creates a small vacuum to help suck out any fuel that goes down the piston shaft. This passage in my housing was blocked that's why I didn't...
The problem with these "Leece-Neville" alternators is if they do go over voltage they have a tendency to take out the "diodes" also. I would just get a "modern" 24 volt alternator and be done with it. If you don't then you might end up chasing your tail all around trying to fix everything that...
That wire is giving the alternator battery voltage and since it appears your "voltage regulator" took a dump on you it was giving the "field" full voltage. That means the alternator was going full bore !
New alternator time or a good rebuilt or take out.
All of our buses use a 5/8" thick angle iron for the side motor mounts. Never seen one break. They also use Polyurethane bushings that are sandwiched between the angle iron mounts and frame.
I have to have my generator on at night to run my "CPAP" machine. I figured if it breaks it breaks. As far as a fuel line bursting I have changed out all my fuel lines with either DOT Poly or "PTFE" stainless steel ones. If those break then I'm really screwed anyway !
I have my "new" MEP-016F up...
I would add that when your getting ready to "jump" on it after making your turn, that your truck has gone straight a few feet. This will eliminate the "slack" in your gear train and allow the "locker" to reengage fully. If you don't get the locker to fully reengage before hammering down you can...
That is just about the best advice given here ! They can get really rusted in ! I also put "anti-seize" on the threads before reinstalling the new ones.
Once the power goes out here the generator stays on until power is restored. Once that took 11 days. I have 250 gallons of fuel at all times just for this kind of situation. Thankfully my immediate neighbor is a driver for the local fuel delivery service ! He brings home the tanker truck so he...
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