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it’s between the engine/transmission and seems to have spread evenly left and right of center. The main drip is almost directly above the driveshaft, dropping square on the Ujoint. I can’t tell if it’s the oil pan gasket, or actually is coming from between the engine/tranny. That would likely...
It just popped into my head. I’m planning to build a rollback bed and that’ll need hydraulics. A hydraulic winch makes total sense!
Now to start the research.
Cheers,
🥄
...I would go for hydraulic. It delivers the power/duty cycle, as well as excellent control and overload protection. Hydraulic lines/hoses are also easier to route than a driveshaft. They figured that out for the M35A3 w/w and also for the Canadian built Deuces with a Pullmaster hydraulic winch.
...in these trucks (you'll kill the alt which will cost you several grand).
Given that you got your paper and seeing those batteries and driveshaft (not being "forked"), I would say that it came from a 3rd party yard (and not government).
Shipping is nuts currently (like +$7/mile in a lot of...
Short answer: no
The "driveline" issues that the 4x4 A0 trucks experience is mostly due to the steep downward angle of the rear driveshaft. The 6x6 trucks do not suffer from this design flaw as they kept the driveshafts straight (via an offset for the input at the pumpkin). Later A1R trucks...
yeah valid point although I did submit EUC paperwork last week but still really quick from what I have seen. And yes I did see the yoke chipped so expecting to add some metal there and maybe retap those threads, doesn’t seem like a big deal and for the batteries, I did see the two standard batts...
One day EUC turnaround? Tells me no paperwork went to DLA. Tells me your truck is a flip. You did see the chewed up driveshaft yoke right? And the battery box mess?
...is perfect. Beside from the fact that I lifted the truck 4 inches and moved the axle forward an inch. So other than that, the front driveshaft is back together in it’s stock form, with all new u joints and cv joint. I’m sure I’ll have to lengthen it a bit for full functionality, but fitting...
...(if the original exhaust was included). The spacers on my truck were missing even though the exhaust was still attached. It caused my driveshaft to rub the exhaust heat shield underneath. See my post in ...
...has a larger spool for cable
+ Durability, Change the oil
- Find the right part (PTO) and they are definitely available
- Find the proper Driveshaft
- Drain the Transmission, Install the PTO correctly and use proper shims
I'm sure more folks will chime in. Me personally, a mechanical or...
...4.5in below the frame top.
Requires drilling 8 holes. 4 per side. Using 1 existing hole already in the frame thru the winch mounts.
Using a 5-324x joint on the transmission side with the caps from a 5-676x swapped onto the 324x.
Shorten rear driveshaft 8inches. Front shaft is 9inches longer.
I will post this information in case it might be helpful to anyone else. The part number of the bearing they sent as a replacement was 3130-01-203-9870 and that is indeed what I needed. After receiving the correct carrier bearing, I found the instructions at this link were not quite workable...
...has part number 2520-01-356-9189 - was supposed to be for front drive shafts for 92-04 with 4 speed - which I think is the longer front driveshaft that I got with my 4L80.
OE/OEM Part Number:
2520-01-189-2135 5-213X 5306-01-190-5760, 5340-01-190-0807 2-70-18X
Interchange Part Number...
...the grease back through the zerk.
I found this nice reference on how to replace the carrier bearing: https://flashoffroad.com/Maintenance/DriveShaft/front/frontdriveShaft.htm
Of course I did not have the proper tool to remove the carrier bearing. But after struggling with my ancient 8" 3...
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