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Looking for TMs for the 31' Patrol Boat, River Mark 1. I'm wanting to power up the navigational lights on the boat on display in a local museum. Specifically need wiring schematics. Thanks for any tips.

I'll keep my eyes open for a trailer helmet top. The last one I saw had damage, so we passed on it.

I have a couple of new ones. I just hated to throw the bad one out, if there's someone out there who repairs them.

Thanks. Is Fairchild the only source?

Looking for the two (2) windshield clamps that hold the front of a helmet top. Please advise with whatever info or resources you may have. Thanks.

I think I have one that I can make a scanned copy of. I'll check and let you know.

Thanks again. I ask about the yellow/green cable because it wasn't connected to anything, and it's still not. I didn't just want to randomly "ground" it somewhere. There is a "Ground" lug (labeled as such) on the generator frame (not the trailer frame), but the cable is not long enough to...

My responses in blue below (we're running out of colors) First question: Does the unit crank when it comes out of preheat? Nope, the process doesn't get past the glow plug pre-heat cycle. Answers: This is the only DIP Switch settings you should use as in Paragraph 2.7. Check - they were set...

System is 12V. check check DIP Switches Dip switches set as indicated on page 11, paragraph 2.7, of the Instruction Manual. Are the dip switch settings indicated on page 11 only correct for when a remote start module is connected? If so, what would be the dip switch settings for "manual"...

If my photos come through, they are the best I can do at this time. I don't have any photos of the inside and won't be able to get them soon. I'm grounded after foot surgery and have another surgery in 8 days.

First off, I have a couple of manuals for this unit. One is the Service Manual for the engine. The other is the instruction manual for the generator. I have been unsuccessful in locating any TMs. We have a surplus military Atlas Copco QAS38 YdS TNV 33.3Kw generator. It does not start with...

Update: Removed the plunger caps. The plungers were a little sticky. Got them cleaned up. However, the main issue still appears to be that the rack is solidly stuck. I'm not confident that any amount of soaking is going to resolve the issue. I will leave the IP as-is for a couple of days...

Removed the cover (53) and the inner workings are clean as a whistle. Sprayed with brake cleaner and Kroil. Since those fluids will likely get further into the IP, I'll spray with oil, let that soak, then change the oil and filter after the unit runs a bit. Before resorting to pulling the...

Ok. Good tips all around. I'll get back to it next week.

THANK YOU!! I will try that.

Latest update: Removed fuel actuator/governor without issue. (Reviewed how to reinstall before I took it off). Connected 24v to P10, and the actuator works. Tried to move the part inside the injector pump that the actuator attaches to, but it wouldn't budge. Tried to find that part in the...

The attachment screws on the fuel actuator/governor do not appear to have been messed with. Will get back to diagnosing in a day or so - hopefully. It's hot! Will try to find an appropriate resistor for testing the A6.

MAG Pickup Wire 147C to A-5/17 = .794K ohms Wire 147C to A-5/17 = 2.8VAC Fluctuations A-5/9 + and A-5/10 - = 19.6VDC Wire 153A to wire 192B = stationary around 6.74K ohms (no movement at all throughout entire range of Voltage Adjust Rheostat) Points A-5/6 to A-5/8 = 4.57K ohms A5. Adjustment...

Answer to your question is no.

Diagnosis data: Using Guyfang's A5 GCU diagnostic sequence.... MAG Pickup Wire 147C to A-5/17 = .794K ohms Wire 147C to A-5/17 = 2.8VAC Fluctuations A-5/9 + and A-5/10 - = 19.6VDC Wire 153A to wire 192B = stationary around 6.74K ohms (no movement at all throughout entire range of Voltage...