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Found this unit in "Cummins Diesel Engines Unit Shop Manual...Bulletin No. 3379084" Labeled "Manual shut-down valve" but whenever I search for one all I can find are the emergency shutdown valves. Looks like a modified solenoid. Does anyone know where I can source one of these?

Too funny, when I was airing up last year, found one of the duallies had zero air pressure but wasn't flat. As far as I could tell it had always been that way with me repeatedly crawling over a stone wall in my yard and driving around town...go figure. :)

Update: Tearing into my checklist I found that the gasket between the fuel filter bell housing and the upper part may not have been diesel certified, it had swollen to the point that it no longer fit the groove. Also found the water trap petcock was clogged solid. Currently waiting on new...

This video describes the Solenoid. What it doesn't mention is the big screw in the middle of the valve. This is to make the solenoid fully manual. There's a knob on the outside of the pump. Screw it all the way in to bypass the solenoid.

Welcome to the Green Metal Psychosis from the 5 Tons...

Thanks guys, next steps are; 1. re-re-rebuild the fuel side of the pump, replace all the O-rings in the filter and test each fuel circuit for air using the transfer pump. 2. Detach the muffler 3. Before sending the pump out for testing, open the "house" cover and see what's going on with the...

Ran her directly from a boat tank connected to a compressor. She will not start from the fuel tank or with the exhaust pipe attached. Even with the pipe off it's a hard start. Ran clean fuel and Sea Foam injector cleaner through the injectors. At first couldn't get her over 600 RPM but later got...

It is part of the "tamperproofing" With the nuts missing could engine vibration over time have worked the screw and throttle shaft out of alignment? If so what direction should I turn the screw to get the angle between idle and full throttle back to 32 degrees? Rust, if the screen filter in...

Dang! I wanted to use the electric pump to prime the PT pump and fuel rail before startup

[ QUOTE="WillWagner, post: 2607117, member: 2057"] There is supposed to be a closed end lock nut about an inch or so long on the screw sticking out of the pump body at the rear of the house shaped cover on the pump. This?

Yup, replaced it. Looked like the interior was coated with rust, however there was no metal on the magnet. So aside from the lift pump delivering fuel to the rail, what is it in the fuel manifold that requires the engine to be spinning for fuel to flow?

This is what I have from Idle to Full Throttle

Hard start and no power, couldn't get her over 1000 RPM with no pedal response. After about 5 minutes it would die. Fuel filter a line was still full of fuel. Checked for air, replace the fuel filter and housing, just to be sure. Cleaned all O-ring mating surfaces and replaced the O-rings, no...

Why are you doing this? Static fuel test to determine if the fuel rail is blocked. The pump is connected directly to the fuel rail, bypassing the PT pump and shutoff valve. The engine is not running (static test), so the injectors are not cycling, and fuel flow is limited to what passes...

Should the fuel line from the shutoff valve to the fuel tank remain pressurized after shutting off the fuel pump? Also what kind of return should I expect from the fuel return line with an input pressure of 75 psi; a drip, a trickle or a gusher? Troubleshooting the hard start, low power and...

Welcome to the green metal psychosis, there's no cure, so spread it around...

My 20V Hercules High Impact Model delivers up to 1,200 ft-lbs of breakaway torque and 700 ft-lbs of fastening torque for tightening. I changed my front wheels without problem using an 8 AH battery pack...of course I did soak the lugs with penetrating oil for 6 months first :rolleyes:

The back plate is 6 7/8 inches off the step but the gap between the back plate and the cab body varies because the step cover sits diagonally to the cab body. There's about a quarter inch gap on the engine side while the opposite would likely hit the cab body if it lined up.

I've got metal boxes and just purchased the cover which fit fine...after hammering the box back into a square. Bonus, the rust matches the rest of the truck's rust.