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Well I started tracing wiring and looking at the R13 resistor and found one of the wires just sitting on lead. Soldered it back in place and it back to working properly. Thanks everyone for all of the help.

There is 16 wires through each loop. I found another post that mentioned measuring AC voltage across K8 and found that with a small space heater K8-1 and K8-4 has 1v K8-2 and K8-4 has 1v K8-3 and K8-4 had 2v. I am assuming that the last one having 2v is going to be what is causing the overload...

can you elaborate on”CT’s” I am not sure what that means.

I got some contact cleaner (waiting for a can of deoxit to come in) and sprayed everything really good and operated s6 and s8 50+ times each. It is still tripping overload after about 60% load. Do I need to remove and disassemble s6 and s8 to get them cleaned better?

I had my amp clamp meter around 1 hot wire at the panel which is where I got my amp readings from. I will get the ground added.

I am fairly new to the military genset world but have spent countless hours on this site reading and have found so much valuable information. I have my Mep802a hooked up to my house as a back up generator. Today I did the first load test and it was going good. I turned the oven on and it was...

I had an extra relay that looked different with a circuit board in it so it looks like someone did put a regular relay in there. Put the correct one in s14. Measuring from terminal 7 to 8 i have battery voltage, measuring from ground to 7 I have voltage but nothing on 8 with s1 in run/prime...

I followed the start signal and have signal up to k16-6. I have signal at k16-9 but not going across the relay. Tested the relay per troubleshooting and it tests fine. Ran a jumper across relay and I get crank but no start (progress). I switched multiple relays and still no change. Should I...

thank you I will work on following this next weekend

It never me mentioned in the troubleshooting about having to unsolder each one it is a pain. Well they are all good now but that was a wasted effort. Onto the next step.

Finally was able to spend some time troubleshooting. Followed the fail to crank all the way to step 11 of testing the reverse battery diode set. It says to test ohms of r10-r13 which should be between 7-7.8 ohms. R10 had 1.4, r11 had 2.4, r12 had 0.8, r13 had 0.8. R14,r15,cr1,cr2 were all...

It will run with manual override of the fuel shut off solenoid using the dead crank switch. I have no pride as I am extremely new to anything related to these things. I will work through the manual and if I have any further questions I will list every step I do.

I am trying to give enough information without telling every troubleshooting step I am doing. original problem was it would crank/start then shut off almost immediately.From what I am reading from the comments maybe I was not holding the start switch long enough to build oil pressure. While...

Originally it would crack then shut off almost immediately. That’s when I found wires not connected on the TB5 row of connectors. After figuring out where the wires go I now have no cranking.

After attaching the wires I turned the start switch and the low oil pressure light came on. Followed troubleshooting and clean the sensor. After installing it the oil pressure light does not come on but still no crank. I started looking closer and realized that at some point someone cut one wire...

I haven’t had a lot of time to look at it due to the hurricane that came through today. What I did find is some wires on TB5 that I believe were so I found the wiring diagram and I am going to put it back together tomorrow and see if that solves it. From what I see the wires were for the oil...

I guess that’s possible. I just think it would run a bit before the switch kicked it off. It’s instantaneous as soon as I switch from crank to run. Is there power going to and from the oil switch? Then I assume it would go to the start switch. Could I just jump the oil pressure switch?

Batteries are both brand new at about 12.8 volts each. I don’t think It is registering on the gauges at all before shutting off. When I hold the solenoid open to run the generator all of the gauges appear to be working.

Recently acquired a mep802a and have been working through a few things to get it going. I found that the shut off solenoid when cranking pulls back but once the engine fires up and return the start switch to run the solenoid returns to the off position. This causes the engine to shut back off...