Search results

Dang, you're not kidding. Most things are at least half off. They have a K30 brake drum for $23. That's like 80% off.

If I can give my random-internet-guy opinion, I'd recommend 60Gs, especially with a push-button.

Good info, thank you. If you want to keep running them, AC Delco 15G or Wellman DRX00115 is what you're looking for. They're not self-regulating, though, and they tend to swell.

If you want me to muddy the waters a little more, here's a HMMWV troubleshooting manual from the AM General training department saying the HMMWV glowplugs are 12v. (Emphasis is mine)

There have been a lot of arguments over that question, but the consensus around here is no, they're not the same. There are data sheets from the manufacturer floating around that say they're both designed to operate at ~12v and they're just marked "24v" for the application, but I haven't dug...

The glow plugs in the 1028 sound like 15G HMMWV glow plugs. The ones on the 1008 are probably AC Delco 13G or 60G. The 60Gs are arguably the best glow plugs as they don't tend to swell as much. You can easily clip the ends of the wires and install whatever connectors you desire.

You can run 285/75s just fine without a lift. I'd probably go a bit bigger if I was lifting it but it's you're truck. :mrgreen:

Once or twice a year, I'll take a can of CRC marine corrosion inhibitor and blast it into the drain holes on the inside of the fender wells. I know correlation doesn't imply causation but it couldn't hurt and I don't have any rusted out fender wells yet!

If everything is operating properly, leaving the service light switch on isn't going to cause it to go dead in two weeks. My batteries are pretty weak and my Gen 2 has bad diodes and I can leave my truck parked for months with the service light switch on and not have an issue. In fact, I never...

If I may offer a suggestion... ditch that disgusting looking bug deflector thing. :mrgreen:

I believe it even says something to that effect in the TM.

Mine does the same thing with the Gen 2 light staying on and low voltage until I blip the throttle. The generator has been needing replaced for a solid 6 months, as evidenced by the very slight glow of the Gen 2 light all the time. It still charges, though, so I haven't got around to replacing...

This is correct. Replacement dash covers were gray.

If I recall correctly, the light should turn on with the wire pulled off of the sensor and then turn off when the wire is grounded. If it does, the sensor is bad. If it doesn't, either the low coolant module under the dash is bad or you have a bad wire/corroded connection. You might want to...

The last time I ordered a GP relay for a CUCV by NSN through the Army system, that's the one that came in.

Isn't it amazing how much easier things are when you have the correct tool? I've fought things for hours and hours because I either didn't want to spend the money or didn't want to wait for the tool to come in. When I'd eventually give in and order the tool, I'd have it done in minutes.:ROFLMAO:

When my truck shows 1/4 tank and the needle starts bouncing around a little bit, I know that I'm about ready to run out of fuel. I learned that the hard way, but thankfully I was lucky enough to learn it in my driveway instead of at a stop light.

The front of my bed is bent in the exact same way. For a 16 year old, underpowered bare bones truck. Holy crap. They probably could've bought a two year old F250 with a 7.3 for not much more.

Threading them out like that is about the best way to go about it as long as they're not swollen to the point of being split.

I had an 16" or so flathead screwdriver that I grinded a "U" notch out of the end to slip over the glow plug. Then I'd set up a wooden block or whatever as leverage, add a little lube, and pry it straight out. Time is of the essence when you have a grumpy shop Chief breathing down your neck and...