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On the turbo 350, I found I could just use a socket to pound a new seal in on top of the old one in a pinch. Beats ending up with a hardened extractor broken off in your transmission like one of the reviews stated. The mechanic in a bottle stuff seems to have fixed nine leaks that I was aware of...

Situationally appropriate literature.

I paid $20 a bottle for ATP AT-205 on eBay and received a package from Rock Auto. I looked it up on Rock Auto and was irritated to see I had been drop ship surcharged 33%. Just one more thing they hide in the menus so you can't find it...

Yeah, there are six wires in the plugs, but the diagram only shows four, which led me to presume it was a universal part across multiple platforms and the other two wires on the CUCV aren't connected to anything. I don't know that. Just assume it based upon the TM. I checked every wire against...

Was concerned with electrical load, but the harness was designed for a nominal 26 watt incandescent bulb, which is roughly equivalent to the draw of the LED 1156 and the LED floodlight combined. The size, weight, and lumens of the floodlamp were giving me worries of letting the magic smoke out...

You're not kidding. I yanked my bed liner out this morning. Slower than a grinder, but just as effective.

Keeps the rain out. Lets the air out when the blower motor is operating with the windows up.

AI doesn't know what it's talking about most of the time, so as a rule, I tend not to listen to it, but it did just tell me that the M1009 trailer connection has no reverse light provision, and given four wires, that covers ground, run, turn, and brake. It's probably true. Bummer.

Let there be light. Thank you to @WWRD99 for the NPS adjustment procedure and thank you to @cucvrus for the bulbs. Anybody know the pinout on these? Goal is to power the flood light with the trailer reverse circuit.

The wires ended right at the grommet where the 24v radio cables pass through the floor pan as if somebody just snipped them off. It did cross my mind that the license plate recess on my bumper could be a great place for a 24v winch, but then winches are shockingly expensive, so probably not.

The terminal rails on the bulkhead behind the passenger seat are untouched. They have much larger cables attaching them to the 24v terminals on the firewall. These mystery wires were zip tied to those cables.

My oil trap had a solid three fluid ounces of ATF sitting on it, so I started hunting for where it was coming from. Got distracted by eight gauge red and black wires I found wadded up under the front battery tray. Followed them down the firewall and they disappeared into a loom. Separated them...

Yeah, it's been cut, but more impressive is that they panel beat it to match the compound curve in the factory stamp. Usually people just chop the fender off right at the bottom of the side marker lamp. Edited to add a link: https://www.alcanspring.com/

I've heard of centrifuge oil filters for making black diesel, but never thought about putting one on an engine. Is there an element on the chamber walls to trap contaminants? There is quite a lot of custom bracketry going on here. You made it yourself? Either way, it's impressive, but even more...

I came off pretty rude. I apologize. It's important to consider what you're using the truck for. If it's for hauling, the back end being jacked up is a good thing. Your leveling kit is whatever you're hauling. If it's for off-roading, you might consider a B52 kit from DIY4x. If you just want...

Well, my jaw dropped if that's what you were going for. Sweet Jesus. Edit: Ten minutes later, I'm still studying the picture. Is the thing on the top right a cartridge oil filter canister?

I got K5 upper rear shock bolts from ORD and had to mill the shanks down so they would pass through the eyes of new KYB K30 shocks. Likewise, in the front, the center tubes in the K30 shock bushings had to be cut to fit the mounting tabs on the 10-bolt. They were too wide. That experience helps...

Likewise, this is the equivalent part to what @WWRD99 posted for an M1009: https://www.amazon.com/Premium-Driveshaft-Assembly-Compatible-Chevrolet/dp/B09DCRZT8Z/ref=pd_scr_dp_alt1_d_d_sccl_3_1/143-9408174-1976143?psc=1

I just ran a cross reference. K5 and K30 front shafts are not interchangeable. Mixing up the M1008 and M1009 is why I ended up having to lathe down my new K5 shock bolts to fit my new K30 shocks...

Out of my depth. Just wanted to warn against trying to do a front shackle lift.