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As I understand it, the fuel gauge has nothing to do with the no fuel fault light. You may be looking at a sketchy gauge sender, and then the low fuel float is out of calibration, or sticky...

And, of course, I should have just gone through the stickies first... No excuse. The answers were right there.

I had a lined tank fail, and a portion of that lining then settled over the outlet. Was a tractor in my case, but another possibility if you're just unlucky.

As I get ready to salvage what I can from the 813a carcass, I wanted to run a couple by the gurus here... I've currently got a square blue S1 in my 802. If I understand, that's the 2nd version, but still prone to failure? The 813 has the below S1, and I thought I should confirm if this is the...

As another bit of info... Assuming the fault panels were never replaced, the 802 was built in 2001, and the 813 in 2006 having a newer generation board would make sense. The 802 has a metal back cover, and the 813 has plastic. How often do people see the fault panel fail?

Ok, the board from the 813a is 19323F. I believe that's the part number, with F being their version, so the 813a's is a little newer. I'm basing that on all the other components that Technology Research Corp made that are in the units. They're pretty much all 19xxx part numbers. That's of...

Yea, there's that one the 802's is PCA-1-0 over 1900 Then something on the far side of the reset switch pins 1932?? possibly 19323F. The one from the 802 is 19323E. Nothing screams part number to me yet, though the later seems more likely.

You are right. I took a quick look when I was swapping, but didn't see it. Cold, not great light, etc. There are a couple identifiers on the back of the card, so I can check by just popping off the back cover tomorrow. I'll stick my phone in there, because it's eye is way better than mine at...

I can't argue that. The -24P indicates the fault panel as a complete assembly, rather than the internal board I just swapped. It might be as simple a difference as the cutout for the ground fault portion on the 802's setup. As I understand it, the Fault Indicator only tells you what it is...

After spending WAY too much time at WalMart getting my battery core charges refunded. ( I am not done with that miserable situation.) Dropped the batteries in the unit. Lined up the switches with the fault panel unplugged, and moved to Run... Fuel pump was ticking, so that's good. I wanted to...

Got a later start on it today than desired despite starting my day at 2:30am... It was behaving inconsistently. Or I suppose I should say more inconsistently. Check batteries. One is almost flat again. OK. Time for new batteries since it won't hold overnight. Ordered a couple 51R's...

Also, didn't have to touch the float setup as the replacement harness was cut off before it got to the tank area, and I simply spliced it in without having to touch anything on the tank. I pulled the panel today, so I've got access to check now.

To be clear, I've got the original fault panel from the 802a in there. I have the 813a's still in the parts carcass. I checked PN's to find they're different in case the 802a's is the cause of this issue.

Well, I wasn't going to go out there again tonight, but then I did... Unhooked the fault indicator. Set the switches, and got the fuel pump ticking in the run positions. Clicked to Start, and it started to turn over. Didn't let it start. That was close enough for a closed up building. I...

Guy - Tried per your suggestion. S10 to Normal S17 out S1 to Prime/Run (no fuel pump ticking) Push and Hold Test/Reset - All fault lights lit up S1 to Start while holding Reset - No fuel pump, no crank. I agree with the logic that it can't see OP when it isn't running. After reading the...

Well, it became frigid again, so I guess I was heading back to the 802a... The plan was to roll it outside the garage to see if it would run. Topped up the batteries. Hooked up the batteries. S10 to Normal S17 out S1 to Prime/Run And... Nothing. No fuel pump ticking Malfunction Indicator...

Thanks for that. I have not pulled/inspected it yet. I am going to add that to the list that includes the fuel/water separator. My plan is to do these PM/inspection tasks once I finish up this repair. I do not want to disturb anything that was working as far as I know prior to the wires...

I got some from the last go around inside. Not enough, and I didn't think that far ahead to get more sadly... On the up side the vast majority of the steel screws, and nuts are in good shape. Anything that's at all sketchy will go stainless.

Back at it today... In my head the P7 harness was going to be fairly simple... I really thought it was just wiring down to the engine. Alas, it runs between the two sections of the control boxes, 3 lines up in to the rear compartment, and then 3 down one side of the engine, and the balance down...

Well, on the up side they don't take up a ton of space to store. I think they'd fit in a gallon ziplock pretty well to keep them neat, and from catching on every possible thing they're near... Instead, I have an entire 813a enclosure to store them in... I'm voting for a ziplock in the future...