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I'm guessing new brake chambers, or are these rebuildable?

This is a great resource and what I’m following.

ECO hub install.. Turned into CTIS and bearing seals.. Turned into brakes.... What a surprise I found. Looking like Private Parts skipped the LO chapter!? :oops: Whats the best source for components? Lots of broken springs... Rust everywhere... Whats the best way to determine if the 'guts'...

A good friends recommendation. He used it on his axles for other vehicles and had good success. So I gave it a try. :). It’s expensive though.

Got after it this weekend. Did rear hub service and ECO hub install. Inner bearing service and seal, CTIS seals, and ECO hubs. I used anaerobic RTV instead of the specified grey... Things I learned today. - check the hard air lines on the hub. when i got my truck there were no ctis...

Managed to get a lot done this weekend. - fenders, lights and reflectors removed. Fun little surprise on the tail lights. :rolleyes: - all the HUKs removed for bed removal. side mounted cut off wheel is the right tool for this job. - side project on the dodge. Brakes. - side project oil change...

Hi IronhorseTX Also a new A1R owner in DF/W. M1078 I’m two months in and have learned a ton. The members here have a tremendous amount of knowledge and are extremely patient with the newbies. :) I’m in the process of converting into our new overland rig as well. Going through mechanical...

Ron.. I know you've posted it before, and I see it in your youtube video.. Do you have the pic handy with the pin outs labeled? Search is eluding me.

great! thanks Lostchain. I know something is working, since i can hear the manifold 'burp' under the PDP when i turn the truck off... I hope to get the hubs swapped in the next few weeks and will use this post in my troubleshooting.

I haven’t got too far into my CTIS yet. But my controller just doesn’t have any lights at all. Considering my wheels don’t have any valves on them right now. And no plugs. It’s not a huge priority. I’ll be doing eco hubs, CTIS seals, and inner bearing seals in the coming weeks. Also got some...

Hmm.. got me thinking a little bit.. I could use the spot where the manifold was previously housed. put a reservoir in its place and plumb into the pump. I'm going to look at the prince wolverine pump you have as well. Either way, i'm curious of anyone that used the same setup here has had...

According to the power packer spec. 35 cubic inch capacity 0.249 cubic inch volume per stroke. I'm just duplicating Chad.. My suspicion is that what I bought might not be true Power Packer.. might be a quality issue is my hunch.

Did that last night with the new pump. I had the cap loosely on. Came out of the back and the cap... https://share.icloud.com/photos/0ddg7te0Tfkxo62_l8GsZVzZg

It does indeed have a vented cap. https://share.icloud.com/photos/087WSJcAhHa7M2X_HdGwEZDxA

I've just deleted my air over hydraulic setup. I just went with the power packer hand pump that BrokeOverland spec'd in his video, and what I think some here have done as well. Plumbed directly to the cab lift cylinder. Things went pretty smoothly, until I lowered the cab. Flip the lever...

I just tried Hagerty.. They won't insure my LMTV because it is not old enough... I have a 2007 model and they said it was too new... and told me to find someone else. :( Edit: I'm in TX, btw Trying State Farm now.

I'll keep my eye on it.. got a lot of other things on the 'to-do' list for the truck... i am interested in your mounts though.. i'd much rather do the driver front cab mount once. :) Passenger side and cab latch mounts are easy

they are NOS.. expiration date of 2019, but the rubber still feels good.. not squishy or gummy.

Well.. Good news.. I already have two 5342-01-371-793 (part #7 above). These are on the shelf waiting to be installed in the front (both of the fronts are dust).