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To get it licensed at the DMV you will need brakes w/ an automatic emergency backup system incase the pintle/lunette snaps off. I'm assuming that you are going to use electric over hydraulic?
The maximum "legal" towing weight for your Deuce is 10,000 lbs. Granted, it "could" tow much more...
Berg Military Tires in North Carolina. 90% + tread, reasonably fresh dates, reasonable shipping. Roughly $250 per tire to the West Coast including shipping.
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He's a stand-up guy. He'll send it to you. Don't worry, you didn't get ripped off. It's a good kit. It lacks any form of installation instructions. But other than that you'll be pleased. If I can find his phone # I'll PM it to you. I can't remember his name, but he's very helpful on the...
Yes, brake drums can be drilled. It is NOT to relieve heat. It is to relieve trapped gasses created by the heat. As the brake shoe vaporizes it makes a layer of hot gasses that gets stuck between the metal drum and the shoe. That make the drum brakes fade on long downhill applications...
Drum brakes do not have bias. No proportioning is necessary. If anything, heavy trucks should have bias towards the rear. That way the truck driver still has control over the steering in case of brake lockup. It's better for the rears to lock up first & still have some steering control...
2400 miles round-trip = 240 gallons of diesel if you're lucky = $1,000 + chance of Deuce mechanical breakdown + 24 hours straight driving at 50 mph each way.
I'd try U-Ship. Guaranteed there's some OTR flatbed trucker driving that route that would find room for your car for less than a grand...
Is this a serious question?
I mean really?
That's like buying a 747 and asking someone if it's a good idea to get a pilot's license.
If you're even thinking of getting a 5 ton then you should get your CDL first. As much as some people b**** it's really not that big of a deal. You take a...
Or you could just use a mercury filled switch as a clinometer anywhere perpendicular to longitudinal axis of the truck. That way you wouldn't have to worry about false alarms over hummocky terrain.
Note, this is the static rollover maximum. That is, when the truck is not moving (or moving very slowly along a hillside in a straight line. It does not take into account the dynamic effects of turning the steering at speed.
I assumed by your question that this is what you were interested in...
What about a tilt-forward assembly? Weld the fenders to the hood, chop the fenders at the hood hinge line, add a hinge in front of the radiator, and use the on-board air to push some pneumatic pistons?
Not that I've been thinking of doing that myself or anything. :rolleyes:
I just need the four U-bolts + nuts.
I'm having internet connection problems today. It took me forever to log on. Thanks for pulling the bolts. I'll PM you tomorrow.
How old is your avatar photo? I notice you have kids. Are any of them old enough to get into trouble at school? Kids often won't tell parents when they are having problems at school. And the bullies often target the victim's parents for vandalism. Just a thought.
I need one complete set. That would be four U-bolts + the nuts. I only have one trailer, but all the U-bolts are toast.
My trailer is in great shape except for those bolts. I think it was forded repeatedly to create such significant rust.
When you get around to it, PM me. Let me know how...
Worst case scenario you can hotwire the starter to crank using jumper cables. You technically don't need the electrical system working to get the truck running. But if you do that, you won't have brakes lights or turn signals.
I would buy one of those glad-handle to air chuck converter hoses...
If you decide to dismantle instead of chop, then I'll certainly take some of your U-bolts + nuts. My U-bolts are so rusty they look like they were salvaged from the Titanic.
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