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I don't actually have a way to run it for any length at full load. If I hook it up to my house and run my house, it won't even reach capacity unless my dryer, well pump, and AC unit were all running at the same time for an extended length of time. The house will exercise it plenty well enough...

I've run it about a dozen times now. I adjusted the voltage knob so I get 120/240v AC perfectly and it is staying at 60 Hz perfectly as well. Every time it works now. I'll hesitantly call this success, although there isn't much left to replace so I'm fairly confident in the repair this time...

Ray70 sold me his CVT1 and CT1 (I asked for both together) as well as his magnets off of the blower wheel. They came in over the weekend and I put the CVT1 and CT1 in the AC output box today. What a pain that was. I was able to slip some heat shrink onto the chewed wire going around the CVT1...

Good point. 0.1 ohms on my leads, which puts the secondary windings in specification. But, now that means CT1 is out of specification...

With the AC Output Box on my work bench, I took readings. I didn't do anything in the AC Control Box today, but here are the results from the AC Output Box: Linear Reactor (NEW) Specification is 13.5 ohms +/- 1.35 ohms Terminals 1/2 - 13.8 ohms GOOD Terminals 3/4 - 13.8 ohms GOOD Terminals 5/6...

OK, back to this, finally. I took the AC output box off of the unit. I've gone back through this thread and I'm about to go outside and test everything you guys have asked me to test so far in this thread. CVT1, CT1, Linear Reactor, A4, T1, T2, etc. etc. etc. Anything I've been asked to...

TB3 is in the AC output box on the right hand side towards the front of the box.

I will do that.

I will re-test the CVT1 and CT1 at some point. Right now I'm in a crunch to finish the popup camper I'm restoring before I take it camping Friday. I also need to replace the exhaust manifolds on my F150 and the entire exhaust system back from there before then.

That's what I thought, but I couldn't find where it said that in the manual this morning.

I have exercised it several times prior to starting this thread thinking that could be it. It moves easily and I haven't touched it since starting this thread.

Well, dang. I only worked 34 hours instead of 48, so when I got home this evening I installed the (tested good) T2 from Ray70. No output voltage, still. Back to the drawing board AKA starting at the beginning of this thread and testing everything again. At this point, I've swapped for a...

I'm getting about 26v AC from the stator. I replaced it with a NOS from Erik's with the same results. I cleaned up the magnets and no change. I may need your magnets, too. They separate from the blower at least.

USPS says there is a delay in the package containing T1 and T2. That stinks because I work Friday/Saturday for 48 hours, I'll be busy all day Sunday with family, and I'm working again Monday for 24 hours. I'm signed up for Tuesday overtime as well, but I might cancel that. So at best, I'll be...

Yes. I checked the stator before installing it and had .6 ohms. With the motor running, I have only 22.86v AC between the two stator wires. At that point, it says to notify a higher level of maintenance (AKA, replace the stator or magnets).

Ray70 is sending me T1 and T2 for a reasonable price. I did reattempt soldering my T2 back together again. I don't think it worked. I replaced the Linear Reactor. What a PITA! The old one actually had the plastic casing breaking apart on it. When I finally had it on the bench, I had an...

I see no way to adjust the air gap between the stator and magnets. The magnets are permanently set in the ring that bolts to the inside of the blower wheel. It's a fixed distance and the ring can't move. The stator is also a full circle and cannot move from where it bolts up. A full circle...

OK, I put a NOS stator from Erik's Surplus on. It was sealed in a paper bag with a wax coating when I got it, all wrapped up nicely. Looks to be in good shape. I put it on today. I get ~24v AC between the two leads on the stator. I've already cleaned up the magnet area of the flywheel. Now...

Hopefully Ray70 has what I need. Worst case, GMG has a NOS T2 on hand, though a bit pricey.

OK, sorry for the delay and thank you for those helping me along with my slow timeline of working on this. I measured T1. 18.5 ohms on the primary windings and 1.6 ohms on the secondary. In spec. I measured T2. Open on the primary windings, 18.5 ohms on the secondary. Bad. I took apart T2...