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And what model truck do you have?

every TPS I install is just bolted on and set midway…generally in the same spot as the one I took off. ive had the them just plugged in and laying on top of the pump and the truck shifts fine…

till you get the transmission shifting accordingly, the TCC is on the bottom of the list…these issues work themselves out many times when you fix major issues, TCC doesn’t happen till you are at about 40-45mph and off the accelerator, that’s a separate test, and 99% of the time the brake switch...

But of course you can drive without a TPS, but you will get funky issues, at my shop, we fix issues, we don’t bypass them… last time I had this type of issue, the TPS was wired wrong near the fuel filter where it plugs in the harness, an hour with a schematic and a meter? I had it fixed as 2 of...

Remove the snout, and swing it to the side…much easier to work it.

There in NO 5/16 hose anywhere on a hmmwv….period. all transmission soft lines are 3/8, the only other size used is 1/4 on the fuel injection pump from the fuel filter and on the fuel tanks return.

Just what does “not shift well” mean?

Fuel pump injection pump, going bad or algae in the fuel and pump, change fuel filter and replace all rubber fuel lines. if cold? No cold advance working air being introduced into the fuel supply take you’re pick…

The best part is MME is a sponsor here, maybe the folks who run this website should actually start calling into question the vendors they choose? I mean…I’ve been calling them out for quite some time, these glow plugs are not the only Chinese parts they sell under the auspices of “mil-spec...

actualily, folks Should be replacing all hose clamps and rubber hoses…in my shop, we do not reuse hose clamps, or attempt to tighten them further, they are generally loose because the rubber has shrunk as the hoses have dried out.

And…200amps isn’t technically overkill, the AC alone is 30amps, you technically per the TM cannot run a red dot system without a 100amp, but that was old guidance when A2’s were relevant…most modern trucks run 130amp on up to 400amp.

First thing I see in that pic is the extra 14v tap wire going somewhere, the 2nd is the pulley on the Gen, I see visible groves where the belt should be.

im sure it can be done, but time is money in My shop…plus I have to warrant what I instal, so it’s just easier to install an OEM compressor. there are lots vbelt belt compressors on the market though…

50mph was you’re statement…not mine, so a freeway, interstate , back road, do we really need to get that granular… Daily now I’m seeing folks post only after damage is incurred before asking the basics of questions on how to prepare these trucks for a maiden voyage. So like many others newbs...

first off, stop driving the truck around at 4k RPM…you can test shifting with just normal down the street for a short distance, your transmission is in 2nd gear limp mode, it’s not meant to run down the freeway at 50mph, it’s meant to get to a safe spot an pull over. the transmission lamp...

2012 is the reset date, they didn’t make m1114’s in 2012, its probably a late 90’s-2004. doing 80mph is for a fool…don’t care which model you have…but hey, Darwinism is alive and well.

Finding the exact kit for the slant back may be a bit of a chore, there were the a couple kits, one specifically built I believe for the m1123’s with the diag module. i would just Find any RD kit for a hmmwv, making sure to find one for a serpentine truck if you ended up buying a v-belt kit, you...

NO TCM lamp? No shifting of the transmission, the lamp lit during startup is a “Hey, I see the TCM” A lamp that doesnt extinguish while running, is a TCM that does not see the motor running… check power to the TCM at the batteries

this is a non-issue…I’ve removed plenty of tcases with no issues.

I wouldn’t, use the nato slave connector. That turret battery charging cables has a circuit breaker on the end in the accessory location