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This truck is an NA and has no catalytic converter, nor is this a problem on NA’s that do…it’s purely a “Turbo” truck issue, at least from my experience
sounds like you have the cold advance and fuel cutoff wires reversed at the top of the pump, the rearward plug is “ribbed” to match the injection pump ribbed boot, 54A is the fuel cutoff solenoid and is the forward plug.
when the truck warms up, it denies 24v on the cold advance thermostatic...
unplug the brake switch and check for 12v on the body harness side, make a switch or jumper and replicate pressing the brake pedal to lock and unlock the TCC….you will be able to feel and hear it and can do this as you drive along at a steady rate of about 45mph, this will tell you the TCC...
that’s the CPS “crank pos sensor” if it were unplugged the “trans”lamp would be on while the Engine is running because the TCM wouldn’t
see the engine running.
This is just another example of why I only use pumps from HPG or MAC motors, either rebuilt or new, the amount of time spent removing this pump again negates any savings,I learned this lesson many years ago. As far as Pensacola diesel goes, I got nothing good to say about them either as a pump...
pressure chart is best, as well as temp gauge inserted into one of the vents while on full, running at 1500rpm…the TM calls for 3lbs 8oz, but that does depends on the pressures banned on air temp.
The rear is an evaporator only, the fan speed is controlled by the hi/low switch same as front, the rear evaporator shuts off when the compressor shuts off, the front evaporator will continue to push air because the blower is still going, this is because the front is also a heater Blower.
You...
STOP
if you tighten these bolts without being completely seated and flush on the timing gear, you will break the pump shaft, its a milled surface and it’s tight, remove all bolts, push on the timing gear with your fingers and shake the pump while pushing the pump, the two surfaces will be flush...