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Seems nothing is going to be cheap on this build. But then price a Mercedes 4x4 diesel camper. Very not cheap.

Thanks, very nice write up and lots of good info. I have a M1010 and plan on using the factory compressor mount for the cabin via either a chevy A/C from a donar vehicle or a vintage air. The VA looks nice. Do you like it and how it works? For the back I am going to pull the factory a/c and...

Have you completed this upgrade yet?

Is that an A/C system you have in your CUCV? If so, how does it work and who made it?

Have you got some pictures of your partial and completed walls and ceiling?

I agree its a good idea but that's a pretty pricey modification. Seems you could do it with $80-100 in parts DIY style. Is that a Hummer crossover in the pictures?

From what I have read, the 6L90E has a larger shaft then the 6L80E. The 6L80E has the 32 spline like the NP-208, NP-241 and NP-242 and I am sure you could convert the NP-205 to work also but a bit pricier. A newer, not sure of the years yet, with VSS output might be helpful for the electronic...

From what I have read on other sites the 6 bolt P side drop case will fit the 6L80 transmission. I think it said you need to be sure your case has a 32 spline input and may have to cut the shaft off some but was fairly easy to do. I'm still looking. The only other alternative I have found is...

Maybe a divorced transfer case would work. The truck is long enough for that I think....? The low first would make it easy to start out but I wonder if the power of the 6.2 would even push it on level road in 6th? I've only l run this engine with the TH-400 trans and it did fine in my M1009...

That OD would give me a 54 mph speed at 1800 rpm which is too slow for the highway. That's why I'm asking about 6 speeds. What about the 6L80E transmission?

Looking for a viable transmission for my M1010. Like the grunt of the 4.56 gears but need to do highway speeds also as I want to travel with Oliver. Has anyone put a TR-6060 in a CUCV yet? How does it do? Top speed? MPG?

I had a lightning issue from the minute I bought my CUCV. No lights were working. Inadvertently left the headlight switch on and the lights came on at about 0500 in the morning. I played with it some and they started working again and I had no trouble for a few months while I was working on...

Follow up on post #1 above,,,,,,,The lights have been working fine for 3.5 months now but while driving the other day I noticed that the dash blinker display lights were not working and upon further investigation I found all the lights in-op. I drove home carefully and proceeded to investigate...

Well that is definitely worrisome. I wonder if there is a way to test the insulation value with a infrared monitor and put a heater on the inside of the box. It probably would not work well unless it is cold out which it is not in NC these days. I may reconsider pulling some liner down and see...

That does not look bad at all. I would think that foam panels might have a bit more R value but not sure the cost of money and time would be worth it. I guess I will look into how the wires get into that box and see if I can make them work. Thanks for the pictures!

I did not think of that. Not bad. I'm about to pull the plug on a tank/hanger/sender unit and valve for mine and I guess I should rethink it a bit before I do.

So, do you think pulling the walls out and replacing the old insulation is worthwhile? I only want to do this once and I have a blank canvas right now. Seems it would help to get wires where I need them too....?

I'm confused. Why is making the rear main tank a great idea? What is the benefit of that? I'm in the process of adding a passenger side tank into my M1010 and have thought of a third tank in the spare tire space, especially since the spare (which is larger than stock) does not fit there very...

Yes, fuel system works well after complete replacement....tank, lift pump, sending unit and injector pump. Running well now.