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There has been a division of diesel oils recently. There is a 10w30 intended for newer engines and a 0/15w40 intended for older engines. I use Chevron products for fleet reasons so I'm most familiar with their lineup. Delo 400 no longer exists there is Delo SDE and Deko XDE. On oil analysis we...
I bought aftermarket brass radiator. It was garbage. Even in brass it was half they weight of the original. The aluminum radiator with plastic tanks has done me well.
It appears that I missed that line about nitrites. It's also pink. The NAPA coolant must be a true conventional.
I still don't like the use of the SCA name. SCA stands for supplemental coolant additive. That's what you're supposed to add to conventional coolant every 15000 miles.
The NAPA coolant is misleading as it is not an SCA type and is likely incompatible with SCA. It contains no nitrites.
Conventional coolants that meet ASTM D4985 and ASTM D6210. 4985 will require a pre-charge of SCA while 6210 does not. They both require additional dosing of SCA, usually every...
It's not the Aramid that deteriorates, it's the rubber binder.
I have always found that Loctite 515 is easy to remove with a razor blade.
It's good to hear that Cat improved the gasket. I'm about to get 4 new C7.1 engines in my fleet.
Thicker gaskets of the same material or construction are...
Selecting a rubber that is compatible with hot water and oil is very challenging. These gaskets are often Aramid fiber with a NBR rubber binder. The NBR binder is not the best choice of material for hot water.
In a case like this you may be better off using an anerobic gasket maker such as...
Most paint manufacturers have a "red" primer available. This refers to an alkyd based primer. They work but they don't work well. There is nothing about an alkyd that makes it superior to an epoxy.
If you go with the jam but you need to install a thing nut first and then a thicker nut. Two nuts of the same width offer no additional locking.
The only effective lock washer is the wedge lock style.
Adding spacers to increase grip length helps.
Are you using a torque wrench?
It is best practice to paint IMMEDIATELY after blasting. Metal in air oxidizes, the layer can be microscopically thin so you don't see it. When you apply paint it adheres to either the metal or the oxides. On an atomic level, adhesion is a sharing of electrons. Paint sticks to metal and paint...
This thread has derailed but do keep in mind that the 6.5 engine can be purchased nearly complete for $8000. If you get water in the fuel and take out an IP on your 3.0 Duramax you can be out close to $20,000 just to repair the installed engine. Hate the 6.5 all you want because it's not a good...
The injection pressure is much higher than the popping pressure. Pressure continues to rise after the injector pops open.
However, there is no risk from cracking the nut on the injector. With the nut cracked pressure doesn't rise. This is also why the cylinder shuts off, the injector doesn't pop.
For industrial Cardan type shafts we design in 7° of misalignment. The universal joints need some amount of oscillation in order to support lubrication. With perfect alignment the grease squeezes out from under the needle bearings and if they don't roll they don't pick up any new grease.
Get some 17 inch 8 lugs, mine are off a 2000ish Dodge. Tons of 37x12.5 tire options available. I spent $400 on 5 rims from Rock Auto and $1700 for 5 non-Chinese tires.
Ideally, you want a Delco 28MT starter but they are rare in the GM pad mount configuration. Aftermarket pad mount noses are available. You can buy any other 28MT and convert it to pad mount by buying the aftermarket nose. If the pinion doesn't match those are available aftermarket as well.
Use the belt numbers listed. Don't use anything but Gates belts. Expect about 20-30k miles from a set of belts if you use Gates. Other top tier brands like Goodyear will throw. Regardless of which belt comes off, it will take others with it. These trucks are hard to drive without power...
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