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No problem! They're sold individually by those part numbers, and my local NAPA had them hiding "in the back". I believe all the oil cooler line O-rings are the same size and same material, so these should also fit where the rubber hoses meet the aluminum tubes on the driver's side, as well...

I recently installed a new aluminum radiator in one of my M1031's, and opted to purchase new O-rings from NAPA. The counter help and I settled on two part numbers that very closely match the original O-rings: 727-2111 and 727-2606... After disassembly of the old radiator, I decided that the...

D30 is correct for all of the CUCV truck chassis' including the M1010. The "D" designation comes from the 5th digit of the VIN number, and simply signifies that the truck was built for the military. The below attachment -- if it works -- shows the VIN breakdown for the 1984 model year.

Any idea what the "FRC" stands for? The 43rd ADA had some battalions at Fort Sill, once upon a time.

Edit: CARNAC beat me to it... Logistics Support. Some internet sleuthing shows that 1-382 was (at one time) assigned to the 479th Field Artillery Brigade out of Fort Hood, under First Army... I think the 479th originally came from Fifth Army out of Fort Sill, but they're showing deactivated in...

Division West of the First Army.....has a 382nd Infantry Regiment with three battalions. If your "I" is a "1", that would better jive with the usual Army way of hyphenating [Batt - Reg].

Short of dropping the starter down to inspect and check for stickers or identifying marks, I'm not too sure... Doubtful that a 12v starter would last very long on a 24v diet, so I'm betting that it's a 24v model. If you can't quite reconnect them, and you're feeling brave... You can try...

Based on your description and your photos, you are triggering your solenoid with 12v, as it is now. EDIT: Looks like we posted at the same time, and you got it figured out... I don't think you're necessarily hurting the solenoid by under-volting it on the trigger side, but you're probably not...

Now you just need an extra CUCV... You know, just in case. :lol:

That appears to be a plug end for the older style 2-pin slave cables. Erik's Surplus has this plug, for reference. Looks like a great assortment of rods and connectors, and you did get a "drive stud" (attached to the 5th rod from the bottom in the above photo) that allows you to set the rods...

NG1EZ3 or NG1EZJ should be your registration number, and it should match the reg number on the data tag in the driver's door jamb... I say "should", because sometimes data tags disappear, or perhaps your truck got another truck's brush guard at some point along the journey. Modern army unit...

My turn to stand corrected! They definitely weren't common...and now I have no idea the rhyme or reason for them...but they're out there.

I've seen quite a few trailers with these M105-style lifting points, and they've all been M101A1 trailers with the 5-lug hubs... They might all have been the cargo trailers setup for generators, with the underslung fuel tank and curbside filler neck.

Rick's giving out sage advice... You can't skimp on the electrical with these old trucks. I like to recommend these battery terminals, as they're mil-spec, don't need to be removed from the battery post when disconnecting the cables, and all of your cables can standardize on 3/8" eyelets... You...

That's why they're cheap in the first place! :mrgreen: Rest assured, I can directly relate and sympathize...

Was wondering when we'd see an update over here... Great work, as usual!

Hard to tell, but it might be the distance/angle of the photo causing some trickery of the eye...thus making it appear that the tire is sticking waaaay out. Would love to see some more photos (especially from underneath) of those dually fenders.

Correct. Build date (6/86) and VIN (1GBH) indicates that it was delivered as a cab-chassis M1031, with data tags showing the conversion to M1028A2. Correction: Looks like it has the newer shop box.

1995217 Switch Assembly --- NSN 5930-01-014-0187 The drawing in the -20P is a little vague, but it's item #15 of Figure 41 and can be found on page 41-1.

Generally speaking, you'll use 3/8" ID hose for all of the supply lines up to the fuel filter housing, and 1/4" ID hose for the remainder... The "vent" tube line off the fuel tank and the small injector return hoses are both different sizes, but don't sound relevant to your plumbing issues...