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I swapped out my regular bed for a 109 box mounted. I forget what I paid for it (or I'm desperately trying to suppress it!) Hated it because it didn't ride well on the super singles, and was full of hidden rust. Also we decided to do a Bob on it.
Yeah, you can get it off with a forklift, but...
M35's use an inverted leaf spring. It's designed to have weight at both front and rear. People have used several ways to Bob a deuce; the M105 trailer springs and mounts with blocks (not so good), stacking the shortened frame of the M105 under the M35 frame, and also reusing the front springs...
I started out with a regular M35A2, then decided to put on an M109 box for a camper conversion. I've done a couple of bus conversions too, including a 40' cabover BlueBird. Drove tractor-trailer too, and I swear nothing scared me as much as driving that pseudo-109 (w/ super singles) on narrow...
I'm afraid not. Until I decided to have them mounted I wasn't even sure I had two. If another shows up, however unlikely, I'll let you know. The step is a one piece stamping that's got a lot of bends, but I'm sure something similar could be cooked up with a bit of cutting and welding.
I gotta' say that the search function almost never seems to work for me, but I have my own answer: Put in steelsoldiers and the topic into Google. Yeah, Google. I've had much better luck with this, and so far the beaten horse hasn't come up once.
I don't have the measurements offhand, but the're robably about 11"x11" at a guess. Years ago I got to take a bunch of picked-through tri-walls a guy had in exchange for cleaning out his storage trailers. These showed up but I have no idea what vehicle they're for. I had Badga use the hole saw...
Thanks! The truck continues to change each month as ideas pop up. I knew I'd saved those steps for nine years for some reason. Getting too old and fat to get into the cab without dreading it before hand.
I used front springs on mine, and to bring the bed up to the cab I'd have had to remove a...
I've got one of the newer style brake booster/ air packs and I can't find a rebuild kit anywhere for it. Does anyone know of one lurking about anywhere? Here's what it looks like. (Sorry, no pics of me pulling out what hair I have left!)
Good advice. I learned the same when I drove big trucks, especially in the city. I drive my bob, going through all the gears when accelerating AND decelerating. I do use the clutch to keep from messing up the synchros. I sure miss the fun of driving a 13 speed!
Yep, that's the one. The truck is an 85 AM General and was depot rebuilt in 95. Is it still a matter of lubing it, or are we looking at a completely different beast?
Took off the skid plate and WHOA! There's a whole lot of connections under there. If I understand correctly, I can remove the end of the J Tube on the rear and get a few squirts of oil in there. Where would the oil go at the front end?
I canlt find this air pak in my TM's. They show another style than the one I have. Could someone tell me if this is an old style-new style? Where would I lube this one?
If I'd had the money I'd have put an 8-10 foot truck sleeper on mine. You can register them as RV's and pay a lot less in insurance and registration, and live without much of the city parking regs.
I've been having an intermittent problem with one or the other of the rear brakes on my Bob just locking up when the air system is up to pressure (90-120psi). It doesn't do it when I'm driving, though it has left me stuck at a few intersections. We've adjusted the brakes according to the manual...
I used to dispatch tire repair trucks to fix tires like these, and these had to have cranes to do the job. They are also very different from other tires in that they are split rims AND tubeless at the same time. As for starting and stopping power, consider that these tires and wheels are just...
No. You have to get to it from behind with the seat off.
I just got back from O'Reilly's with the Monroe 66104 and it looks like it'll do the trick. Thanks for the feedback, all. We'll get it on the seat shortly.