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002 TM shows the same image. Guess it's not intended to be accurate. I must be missing where ever it says how many windings it should have.

Pg. 95 ( 6-16.1 ) Fig. 6 7.1 I think I'll look at the 002 TM and see how may wires that image shows.

Ah Ha! seems I mis-read slightly. I thought you were tripping the over temp light with the gage reading at 200* , but in fact you said temp increased by 200* above the ambient temp. to 220. So perhaps you really are overheating? Which could be a stuck closed thermostat, or a thermostat installed...

Hello guys, A little while ago there was a thread talking about errors found in the generator TM's and we had discussed potentially creating Sticky's for these Errors. I came across another error recently and it mad me remember that thread and wonder what happened to it. In this instance I was...

I believe you are correct. The engine normally runs at about 200F ( according to the gage ) which in reality is about 180F The shut down in controlled by the 2 pin thermal switch located on the oil filter side of the engine, near the thermostat. You could remove it and attach a DMM, heat it up...

Looks like something is blocking whatever that engine uses for crankcase ventilation ( I'm not familiar with that motor ) Do you have a breather on the valve cover or some other means of it burning or venting crankcase pressure? It has to have one or the other.

Very interesting! and indeed when I've tested them in the past I always had a DMM. The results with an analog meter or with the resistor will be interesting to see!

Lets go back to the beginning.... Are or were you having a charging system failure and if so what was happening? I suspect you have 2 good stators and possibly either a measurement error or yet another mistake in the TM! I'm pretty sure I've seen about 50VAC at the stator wires with everything...

Looking at the schematic the cold solder joint theory is looking more and more promising. Try sticking your jumper across the CR1 posts again and see if it comes back to life. Follow the red line from the alternator to MT4 to CR1 then to the dead crank, then to the E-stop and CB1 and lastly S1...

I previously thought the same thing, but after rereading he says he has 24V on both sides of the diode, so I assumed it must be correct, right?

Don't waste your time or money. Flattening paint is pretty much just a matter of additives that disrupt the surface finish, essentially making the top layer slightly rough and porous. Once you go beyond the normal "flat" finish and begin getting into the velvet look, your paint will have no...

Are you looking for ceramic rattle can engine paint? or planning to spray it with a gun? You can try getting a close match with engine paint from your local parts store. There are several different red colors out there made by Dupli Color. You could also try Cummins Apex Red engine paint...

You could also try checking "Safety Yellow" if you have a local automotive paint supply shop in your area, see if they have color chips for their line of industrial colors. They will probably also have several books of generic color chips. Just look through the yellow book and see which one...

Bump again!

Perhaps it was really cold out and someone figured the spiral wound throttle cable sleeve would make a nice resistive heating element to pre-heat the engine compartment??

It could depend on where you bought it. Some of the auctions attempt to start them, some don't, some use a slave cable, some don't. I got one once with the throttle cable jacket melted somehow and my best guess was that somehow someone tried to jump it and had a mishap with the cables???

Or possibly hooked up jumper cables in reverse polarity with + on the chassis and - on the + battery post?? Look like some kind of dead short/reverse polarity situation happened at some point.

He's on it... He's got the Deoxit on order so he can clean the switches, he's also working on learning about the droop adjustment and lastly he's going to address the potential wet stacking. Now we sit back and wait for the results to come in.... :grd:

The MOV is not seeing anywhere near 120V, if that's what you're thinking.....?

I'd suggest using something other than your inverters to load test it. Use an old electric oven, some heat guns etc. something you can use to step up the load sequentially. I'd first clean the switches, then perform the wet stack cleaning procedure by loading it up to say 1Kw for 1/2 hour, then...