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So assuming you have the new regulator on..and unit is turned off.. There is a test you can do which will prove to you that the generator is capable of making voltage and being stable. That will put your mind at rest that the issue is the regulator. If you unhook F+ and F- from the regulator...

So, how is it going? Still stuck?

Google flashing the field and constant excitation tests..if you are still stuck, PM me and I can help more...

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That system had a two stage load shed. As the load on the generator increased, it would drop the load banks that kept a load on the engine and prevented wet stacking. If you continued to load the generator it would dump the ECU heat or cool while keeping the vent fan running. This freed up...

did you get a manual?

That system was designed to be run while on the trailer. The generator enclosure is not able to standalone on the floor. Likewise, the ECU is not a floor unit. When sold to stand on the ground, the generator had a different enclosure and base frame and the ECU sat on a little cart with wheels...

Oh wow...why remove from the trailer? If you do that you need to recreate the temp controllers, the power and the selector switch that lives on the generator...It is easier to put trailer in shore mode and feed in 208v three phase and run from there.... offhand, I would put it back and run...

So far as I know these rarely come up on auction so I was fortunate to snag one. Generator has a 60amp connector that is three-phase, these are the boxes you hang on the end of that cable to break it out to normal 120V single phase for use inside the shelter. Works with DRASH, PowerSystems...

INI gens? Yes. Military had a tech bulletin that said when run on JP8 or diesel the piston did not get hot enough to fully burn the fuel. It burns only the lighter fractions, and the heavier fractions slide down the cylinder wall and fill the crank case. They would drain it down and keep running...

John Deere rep told me if you use the most expensive, super lubricated oils, rings will never get hot enough to bed in...use simple basic, no additive oils for 100 hours, then you can switch to all the expensive additive stuff...YMMV but that is how I do it...so far so good...

Trick with these is to look at the engine and the power panel. If it has all 60amp connectors start to look towards the 18kW or 20kW. Now the engine, 18kw has an Isuzu, the 20kW is Lister Petter. If it has 60 and 100 amp connectors or all 100 amp connectors it is a 33kW or a 35kW. 33kW was...

They are simple to install. Just wire it in like the one you took out (you might want to buzz it out also, 3+4 are phases, F+ and F- go to generator head) If the generator was US then the 18kW would have made 208 so you need 60Hz... If you wire it right, the worst that happens is you accidently...

In their nomenclature 185 is an 18kW with a 5 ton ECU,,,HP-2 is the trailer size. there is also an HP-4, 6 and 8....they carry more weight If you have no voltage or low voltage you need to be sure where the fault lies...is it making voltage but not coming out of the breakers? Breakers can fail...

Likely dried pink coolant...pics would help:)

You could change the black power panel back to the original and then drop in a receptacle....looks like partzilla have the panel for about $27...

You can buy and make your own cables. They are Class L connectors and usually made by Amphenol. The cost is because they are mil standard (had hammers dropped on them, immersed in boiling salt water etc..) and the cable is mineshaft rated cable, super tough. End result is a cable that is almost...

That is exactly what they John Deere service folks told me. They said if you go straight for the high-end oil with all the clever additives the components do not get hot enough to seat. Basic oil for break-in period then you can use all the really good stuff from then on...

At 236 hours that is a baby of a unit...They leave the factory with 2 hours burn test and then the first oil change (to get rid of break in oil) is due at 100 hours, then changed every 250 hours after that... Do you have any pics of the wires that are cut, be happy to give you an idea as to how...