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@McSpeed has one, IIRC. Maybe he can chime in.

“I know that's not likely his objective”

I know that's not likely his objective, but it would be a much easier avenue to grow the company. He clearly has a market if he's swamped.

Totally agree. I maintain no social media presence, so using my wife's account for stuff like this is a PITA. For the $100 annual cost plus $30 in web design software, it seems like an easy solve.

A couple of cans of black PlastiDip and you're in business! I can't stand two tone wheels, but that's just my opinion.

Looks like an enterprising thief could make out with about $100k in doors in a few minutes with a set of tin snips and some basic hand tools... of course, the two decades in the Federal Pen might stink.

Tag for info. I’m in the same boat.

NSN 5930-00-296-6318 https://www.wbparts.com/rfq/5930-00-296-6318.html FWIW.

IIRC the heater core from a 1965 mustang without AC can be made to fit in the space with minor modifications if you need the heat.

Thank you for the link! I saw a set for $65/ea but they looked questionable, the LED grid looked different than the Trucklite. Might still be worth the risk to see if they function.

Thank you! I just bought a set! That’s way better than the $700-1,000 I was seeing before. Any chance you have a lead on fronts?

@HUMMER H1 What was involved in the taillight swap? Just a new surround and different lights? Are they Wrangler taillights? Mine could use a new set but the LED prices are steep for the military version. Truck looks awesome, great job so far!

Welcome Midwest brother!

You’ll want a set of injection line wrenches, but nothing to it. Wrench goes in/on, loosen, listen, watch.

@Retiredwarhorses

Good deal, I should probably check mine as well. I think it’s just the swinging in the direction that causes it, but it is only momentary and it’s definitely not pegged in my case.

Mine does this if I’m driving during the “afterglow” period, when the plugs cycle off (Im guessing off, but don’t have alight rigged up yet), the battery gauge spikes into the red. If it’s not under load, it bounces between green and yellow until the afterglow is finished. I figured this was...

I think it’s your glow plugs being cycled on. If I just started my HMMWV and start to drive before they’re done cycling (60-90 seconds on a cold start), I will see this, too. I let it go through the standard warm up and everything is normal. I have the 200a Gen on an A2.

I cleaned up my battery box, did away with some unnecessary equipment and setup a 12v panel for interior lights (white and red), ancillary exterior lighting, and to hard wire the comms system. I’m pretty weak at electrical work, so it was slow going, but it turned out nicely.

I appreciate your help with this. I have a much better sense of the electrical system now. Regarding the switch, I’ve seen a handful with the same specs but different model numbers. I think I’m going to call Hella tomorrow to clarify. I’m also going to take this opportunity to remove the slave...