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It's amazing the amount of effort people go through working around a problem instead of fixing the original issue. They probably had trouble with the headlights and instead of cleaning a few contacts or replacing sockets they started hacking and adding new wiring and in-line fuses. I guess...

Did you check the rubber return hoses?:naner:

Ok, hope you get it figured out, take care.

For the charging system to function properly, Gen 2 needs to be an isolated ground alternator. There will be no external differences on appearance, the isolated ground is just a phenolic bushing on the terminal. Check for continuity from case to the stud , you should not have it. Just swap...

Just swap alternator positions. Put the functioning alt in position 2 and the replacement in position 1. Gen 2 needs to be an isolated ground alternator and as long as someone hasn't already swapped them out it should be stock. Hope that helps.

Got my AM-7152 power supply mounted for the GRC-213, just need to score an AM-6874 amplifier to finish the build.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5404296&cc=1050578&jsn=515&jsn=515

Unfortunately you're out of luck. The DOD/Army upgraded to a new tracking program a couple years ago and subsequently purged all old vehicle records instead of carrying them over to the new system. You may be able to carefully sand down to the original bumper numbers but that maybe it.

It may sound silly but if I were having issues like that and at wits end, I would take it 500 miles north and leave it with Cucvrus for a few weeks. Guaranteed you'd get back a superbly running CUCV that would be 100% correct. I apologize that I can't offer help or advise, there's just too many...

Looking at the print, it looks like everything goes through your Directional Signal/Hazard Flasher switch in the column. Its part number 1997983 in the -20P which crosses to a autozone part number SW324 for $27. It might be the last thing to check if you isolated it from the fwd and aft lights.

It sounds like your GP card might be trying to function properly but your GP relay is faulty. The 30 seconds after engine start with the needle down in the yellow is your after glow function controlled by your card if IRC. It will jump back up to green after 30 seconds or so.

Antennaclimber I believe is his screen name. When I bought my new card from him I had to undo all the extra added "shade tree" glow mod buttons and switches the PO had done to it. I thought to myself, it must have taken this guy all day long to install all this crap as opposed to spending $100...

I'm pretty sure Jatonka took the surplus covers you mention and duplicated them so they shouldn't smell like an old Army tent. However, I can attest to Rick's point that if you do purchase the surplus covers they WILL come dirty and smell of mildew and an old tent. I bought surplus set last...

I just finished replacing all four shocks, small potatoes I know but huge difference in ride. I honestly had no idea they were that bad. When I got the old ones off, all of them collapsed with little effort and only slightly more resistance to extend them. The only issue was the usual drivers...

Much easier!

I've experienced this same problem. With pumps that have sat unused for a period of time, it is not uncommon for the plungers to stick inside the pump. They are not damaged but the pump needs to be disassembled and the plunger freed. Your symptoms will be fuel to the pump and back through the...

Had my driveshaft redone. One of my shaft bearing caps just fell out while i was removing the shaft. It had .020 radial play so it was shot. Took it to a drive line place near the airport and they cut off the bad yoke, welded on a new one, pressed in new bearings, balanced and painted it for...

Like Will said, look high first. Probably 50% of our "rear main" leaks are misdiagnosed IP leaks. The throttle shaft seals weep into the valley back to a drain hole that exits just above the camshaft plug. Along its journey down to the crank shaft seal area it picks up 30 year old dirt and grime...

I had this saved while I was trouble shooting my own IP issue earlier this year.

Rick, Im not nit picking just curious. Is that the factory routing of the heater supply and return lines? Mine are routed under the batteries and laying against the fender. Yours makes more sense, just wondering.