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That's not an old thermostat is it?

Seems like you're making progress! I don't remember if you mentioned earlier, but are your metering pumps made by Stanadyne or Delphi?

I shared some pics a while back when I was working in a stuck metering pump. In my case I only had to take the top half of my pump apart, but there might be something useful in these pics: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/mep80xa-injector-pump-leak.209170/post-2441547...

Last time I was at my local Menard's store, I noticed they had a modest selection of free used appliances in the backyard near the lumber. An oven could make an easy load bank, and free is a nice round number. :D

Since no one else has chimed in yet, I'll take a stab. If the physical dimension of the outside of the exhaust pipe is 3.5", then it's likely 3" NPT. A cheap way to confirm would be to go to the local hardware store and find a cheap threaded PVC or ABS (drain) fitting or cap and see if it fits.

I had a similar thought and ended up trying that idea on an 803 for my folks a few years back. I fabbed up a solid line and routed it from the return fitting on the tank, generally followed the fresh fuel line below the left door and up towards the primary fuel filter, then stopped just below...

Dug this up from one of my old posts in a different thread: Wix 33348 canister cartridge comes with the large diameter o-ring for the edge of the bowl. The pair of small rubber washers/gaskets that go around the bolt are Wix 15398. I couldn't find any locally, so I ordered some online from...

The pin is in the red circle. It basically bypasses the governor controller. I think you have to hold the linkage in the full throttle position before the pin goes in. (Also useful when pull starting) When you want to shutdown the genset, you'll need to pull that pin out (or hold the...

There is a physical pin you can use to lock the governor at full throttle.

If you take the #2 pump out, are you able to move that pump's metering lever back and forth easily? If not, that pump might be seized, which would prevent the fuel rack from moving when that pump is installed. Or another thought would be to use the dead crank switch to bump the engine over, so...

A coupler for electrical conduit would be a little thinner than the black iron. I've used them before when adding a short pipe and tractor-style flapper when the stock square flapper was missing.

Any chance your pressure regulator is turned down way low? Does the same thing happen if you use a small blow gun tip in the valve stem with the valve core removed? Could someone have dumped a bunch of slime in there and plugged the valve stem?

Any chance you can get a picture of the tag on the gen head? It should be just left of the lifting loop in your middle picture. That should clear things up.

Is that a speader / lifting bar on top? Looks slick.

I remember a post a few years back about using a Fernco coupler (rubber plumbing fitting). It's not perfect, but it could be better than nothing. Edit - Here's the post: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/803-fuel-filler-rubber-gasket.177229/post-2115509

Thanks for the offer. I'm hoping to make the retrieval drive next week. It's about 6 hours each way. $500 has been my max for ages, so you likely would have got me.

Here's a link to a post in different thread with some metering pump part numbers: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/mep80xa-injector-pump-leak.209170/post-2441547

Agreed. I'll post some pics when i get it home.

Sorry @98G, I'll fess up it was me. I've been looking for a load bank for nearly 10 years. They don't get much closer to me than in Kansas. Feels weird being on the lucky side of a bid for a change. Usually I'm the one setting a max bid and getting poached by 1. Looks like this unit will need a...

Assuming the yellow plastic in the 3rd picture from post #1 is the underside of the oil fill cap in the top of the valve cover, maybe the engine took on a little water when that fill cap was off.