Search results

Though not exactly designed for it, I got the windshield armor kit installed. My windshield glass is 5/8”supplemental ballistic (not the knockout type), but the armor fits great and closes everything out nicely. There are a few more kits floating around out there.

Not sure yet. I was just priming the IP and flushing the lines. As soon as I saw how big the leak was I stopped to assess the situation before proceeding. Would like to repair the leak before firing the injectors.

Bone dry under the fuel line fittings, and on the entire rear section of pump, as well as the front section. The drip is coming from the center, under the large hex on the side of the pump. I believe there are a couple Allen-head screws underneath. It seems to be coming from one of them, but I...

It was Pensacola Diesel. They replaced the one I sent in with this rebuilt unit because mine was “beyond repair”.

It’s not coming from the front, and not coming from the fuel lines. Somewhere in the middle…

Finally got the Injection Pump reinstalled and cranked the motor. I noticed the engine valley puddle up and sure enough there's a drip coming from the IP. This thing was just rebuilt. Know what could be causing the leak?

@Retiredwarhorses saves the day again. Thanks all!

Yes, the IP shaft spins freely when tested, and plunges in and out with the spring no problem.

No, that’s one of the three original bolts. Seems to seat fully and not be causing any binding. I would try to turn the motor without the bold, but don’t want to mess up the timing. Thanks for the tip on the area the plunger hits not always being dead center. That’s what was concerning me, as...

Installing a new (rebuilt) Stanadyne Injection Pump and running into a problem so I stopped. After lining it up with the timing mark I made before removal, as well as ensuring the pin is in the slot inside the motor, I snugged up the nuts on the front of the IP. Then I installed the first...

I was told this was from a HMMWV. Can someone identify which version it is? 6.2, 6.5 NA, 6.5 Turbo etc.

Got the new pump in and now moving on to replace the fuel injectors. Has anyone figured out a way to replace the driver-side injectors WITHOUT removing the 400-AMP Alternator on these REVs? I have gorilla hands.

9/16” laminated/tempered is available, which would be 1/16” smaller than OEM. Think that’ll fit with tolerances for the stock rubber seal and retainers?

Makes sense… it would only work if the replacement poly layer is the same thickness as the original. Will likely end up using laminated/tempered in 5/8” (or 3/4” if it’ll fit with the retainers & seal)

They’re becoming pretty rare. I think I’ll take it to get delaminated and possibly have another poly layer installed if I can find a shop that can do it.

Yes, that study gives a good understanding of the problem. Seems to be the thermoplastic polyurethane "TPU" layer that's failing. Another study referenced a company called The Glass Doctor of St. Petersburg, Florida, who's simple "Patented Technique for Repair of Delaminations in Glass"...

Yes, that thread is about the Ibistek knockouts I mentioned in my original post. The solution there was to cut out the top couple layers to remove the problem. Not possible with the 5/8's I'm dealing with.

Polycarbonate layer on the crew side.

I have searched the forums and can't find a solution. Cutting the glass isn't really an option on these thinner ballistic windshields (like some are doing on the Ibistek ones). My 5/8" ballistic glass is delaminating something fierce and I want to either stop it, repair it or replace the...

Would love to, but I hear special tools are needed for calibrating it. But yes, if rebuilding the bottom end fixes it, that would be great! Turns out this is not a Stanadyne IP, but is an AMBAC Model AB5079R. Know where I can find the rebuild kit for it? At least for the bottom end (replacement...