Search results

Watch for the installation of a drain plug next years mod!

Good afternoon Steel Soldiers, I’ve scoured the cucv tranny threads and not come across anything similar to this yet. My M1009 sat for about a year before I got her started this April. Only new parts from that repair are the starter, flexplate, and some bolts for the U-joints on the rear...

Update: With no shims the newest starter sounded good when turning the plate so I purged the air through the fuel system, put the plugs back in and she fired right up. So, I let it run for an hour before taking it around the block once, then I let it cool an hour and again it turned correctly...

I do have the L Bracket in place and tight when I try. I have been tightening to spec which I think is 35lbs. Notably, it was not there when I bought the truck and that could have been one reason why one of my bolt holes was cracking.

Kaiser67M715 and gringeltaube, If what you're saying is true that the momentum of the flywheel (flexplate in this case) will cause the starter gear to retract, then I should not have any problem at all. You see, I have had my plugs out and my injector solenoid wire disconnected for this...

Update: I had a mechanic (who was in the service and worked on these rigs) -come and give mine a look. It's been since 1987 that he has had his hands on one, but he is fairly positive that my problem is entirely electrical and due to some starter relay which is apparently not allowing either...

This 2nd and 3rd starters do not experience run on at all but what I had been doing with the starter that did do that was just keeping the terminal clamps loosely on the batteries and unplugging them quick. No matter - I'm not putting that starter back on again anyhow. What is a pilot bearing?

All of the starters I've tried technically engage and turn the plate, its the dis-engagement that worries me. I suppose that once the plate is turning on it's own that it will assist in disengaging the pinion and then the plunger will just pull it back in, but I'm a novice on starters and don't...

I ended up getting a 3rd starter. This one has the same problem of not being able to disengage, even when shimmed up to 1/8th inch. It sounds best when it is not shimmed at all. I am going to get some new bolts and then probably try and see if shimming one of the bolts more will help. The...

I visited GM as well as a rebuild joint today. GM has starters from $300-$700 and the rebuild shop has one for about $175. The shop checked and found both of my starters to be working fine although one was getting pretty hot down where the brushes are but it was running way longer than would be...

I think its an AC Delco, on the receipt it says 24v CUCV Delco Starter, then the numbers 10461453, 10465015, 10479611, and 1998409. However the starter itself never had a serial number plate or anything other than a sticker saying 24v. It sure looks like the one that came on the truck and taking...

Thanks, I had actually already watched those videos as well as ones from eric the car guy, chris fix, and other youtube stuff before coming to ya'll on steel soldiers. The technical manual says not to shim over 4mm or 1/8th inch basically. I put every combination of these shims in from 0mm...

First off, I'm a novice and am struggling to shim my starter. But I want to give a quick summary to explain the pictures and why 1 bolt is longer and using washers at the head. A faulty fuel gauge resulted in running out of fuel. After refilling I found my starter to be grinding. I had only...

No, I just jumped them temporarily while trying to get my starter to line up and crank. It didn't, so I just changed the flexplate. I'm wondering how to know if I put it on backwards or not? Chilton says it only mounts one way but I believe that's referring to the dowel peg and not being...

Replacing Flex Plate, what to remove from tranny? I'm in the middle of this job right now. I've got the starter and front cover off, got the shafts disconnected, and I've got the longer studs in the place of the housing bolts. I am trying to locate every thing I should remove from the tranny...

10/4. I'll check that out and update thread with my results. Thank you again.

I agree, cracked iron/steel is no good... But the crack isn't in the starter, it's actually in the engine block, where the bolt goes from the starter and threads into the block. So Short of replacing the block.. my solution was to drill up farther into the engine block and tap new threads. As...

Well this thing has been kicking my teeth. The housing where the starter bolts to the block was cracked on the bottom side. To avoid it breaking off, I drilled farther up into the block and then tapped some more threads and am now using a longer bolt for that side of the starter. I have been...

Gotcha. Definitely forgot to mention that whatever bolt had been in the starter to support bracket had broken off at some point, and I had to extract it from its housing within the starter. I basically found a bracket with an empty hole, and some remaining threads inside of the starter housing...

Awesome, thanks for the air bleeding info. First things first, I need to eliminate the God awful grinding when it tries to crank. (I do have a video, not sure if I can post that here somehow?)... But I had the Starter checked, works great. I took the cover off the flex plate and found a few...