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PLEASE..... when you get this figured out, let us know. You have one of the stranger issues I've seen here. I might add, I "think" the 12k axles also have a different washer with the outside bolt.

FYI ,yall..... been lurking here for years, did not realize you could pay with PAYPAL until a while back. I have an aversion to paying with my CC over the net as I think many would. It needs to be pointed out that PAYPAL is accepted.

FANTASTIC work! May I ask, is this AL, and are you using Pro CAD software or "consumer grade" details, details........ Also tell the guys from ATF I said HI when they drop by.

A coffee maker is no better than what you put in it, right? BLACK RIFLE!

Mile Marker on the front takes it own unique front plate and I believe two brackets. Prepare to part with a kidney. Post #4 doesn't show it clearly but it's there.

If you are "realy" about to buy a truck Steve is the guy to talk to!!!

Little white plastic thingie beside the fuel level sender . I think, but am not sure, it vents to the area behind the air cleaner ( another little silver thingie). I'm not going to suggest that you put a gallon of clean fresh diesel in a jug in the passenger floor and a hose to the mech. pump...

The "dirt" that you are seeing on the bottom of the tank may very well be a "biological" (I'm not allowed to call it algae on this board). It can get by the pickup sock in the tank and it grows in the fuel filter, hence pulling the filter housing to clean it thoroughly....and I might add the...

Pull the fuel level sender out of the tank then insert eyeball. Way easier than pulling the tank. Having said that, the tank will probably have to come out. If the tank is clean replace "all" the rubber fuel lines, remove the one way valves and clean or discard them, "remove" the fuel filter...

Ear plugs or David Clarks are so much easier !

Two words........EAR PLUGS.......... you are fighting a loosing battle.

Kirtland.............

"fuzzytoaster" is on this board and is around the F part of DFW. He may have what you need or can point you to a local supply...... My 2 cents.

NOT a professional mechanic here, BUT I think you made a good call on the replacement thing!

You can retro fit the newer style control arms to the early trucks, they have a reinforcement "loop" around the ball joint if my memory serves me (It's the coffee thing again). They get a different ball joint with bigger bolts may be........ it's been several years since I swapped out my 998...

BLACK RIFLE, please! "JUST BLACK".............................. still thinking............................

I think we have someone in your neck of the woods that sell tires from time to time............... I haven't had enough coffee yet to remember who! BUT, I do remember he's north east of Dallas....... maybe............ but not Texarkana.............

The industry may call it a "mud ring or mud lip", if you compare a 5590745 beside a 19832 you will see the difference. My hat is off to you, you apparently have tools and are not afraid to use them. You get to try a second time, no big deal, all of us have had to revisit a repair 1 or 2...

Were the shafts under the seal in good shape??? The OEM seals have two lips on them that had collected water and corroded two shafts on one of my trucks. These can be repaired (and I use that term lightly) with a speedy sleeve. But be advised, this spot with the corrosion "might" develop into a...

The correct tool also helps with tie rods. Hint "it's not a pipe wrench" . They actually make a tire rod wrench that hooks into the split in the end of the tie rod helping to "open" it as pressure is applied. They are not too expensive for occasional use quality. Just my 2 cents.