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Thank you. Just don’t get too mad when you see the video of the square body truck series (fall guy stunt truck). It will be going over the cliff this July.
I bought a Vevor 8kw model. It is all
We can get delivered via Amazon in Alaska. It is a self contained model with fuel tank and all in the box. It allows me to take it off the truck quickly. I’ve used it now twice in a couple of epic overnights and it has been awesome down to single digits...
Yes! That's what I figured out over this last week. Got mine put together - but most important is to be able to take it down and store it on top while on the trail or highway - so i didn't put extra support braces to hold the wind load.
Made a video
Hey guys...been a while since I posted.
A few weeks ago I put a cheap diesel heater assembly in the back of my M998 and took it out overnight camping. it was AWESOME! But - Mrs. McSpeed won't go out in that kind of cramped exposed space.
So - there is a theme with me. One of my earlier...
I think you should read the post above from https://www.steelsoldiers.com/members/mccullek.112024/ as he seems to have figured out the right parts application hack. I just broke down and got a rebuilt unit after my lost cause.
MME called me back - said to drive it for a bit and see if the factory packed grease works down in the pitman arm so I can add more - said it was pre-packed and could explain why I can't push anymore in.
We will see - I'm now doing a steering gear, pitman, idler, idler bracket, and tie rods on...
I found the problem!!!!!!!!!! After installing the pitman, idler, and tie rods...and inspecting - the tight steering was still there. What is so odd is it is the same tight with or without engine on or weight on the wheels or even the tie rods connected.
Last night I dropped the intermediate...
Update - Jacked it up and observed while engine is off I have up and down play in the idler arm and obvious play in the pitman arm to drag link. I am not 100% sure why this could cause a binding sensation but it is the next obvious choice to tackle and clearly it is worn out. Midwest Military...
We had a great run this weekend exploring an old mining road in Hatcher Pass, Alaska.
I didn't comment on it in the video - but my steering is not right. I just posted a thread about it here as well.
My truck has been working great - and working hard off-road. 1988 M998.
I had recently had some heavy water crossings and a week after I drained and filled my gear boxes and wheel gear boxes. No water came out - but never hurts to have fresh fluids.
I also re-greased the joints.
So - fast...
Oh yes…right! I had forgotten that.
on another note….picked up the gear oil last night. Goingto drain the gear boxes this weekend and See if they have taken any water.
I honestly wasn’t aware of that technique. How does that work? What makes it disengage ? Around here in an frequently all the way stomped to climb hills and the fan will cycle during hill climbing on the highway.
I agree. I also waited till the engine was cool before crossing to keep the temp down so the fan didn’t engage in the water. That would be bad.
Going as fast as I did pushed the water over the hood pretty bad. But I went fast to keep moving with the strength of the current.
That list makes sense. The biggest issue I have with a breakdown around here isn’t the overall distance to get home as much as the fact Alaskans often think a stranded and abandoned truck is a perfect item to target practice on and to see if it will burn. Sad but true. You leave nothing on...
What parts do you think would be wise to bring? During the winter I usually don’t turn it off when on the trail. Probably shouldn’t have on this trip but was worried about having enough fuel to make it home. Starter would be a major issue of a failure in the trial. But maybe good to have a...
You mean while on the trail?
Here is what I do at the present:
1. Basic tool kit - with universal adjustable wrenches and two socket sets.
2. Oil and funnel
3. Duct tape and zip ties
4. Spare tire (in the bed - will soon have it on the mount on the air lift bumper)
5. paper towels
6...
great point!!!! I didn’t think of that. Steel is cheaper anyway but when you factor the other steps to prep and paint to reduce corrosion it is more labor intense.