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Maybe 37s might be a bit much off-road, but pretty sure I could do 36s without rubbing.

My front hub to fender is 25-3/4" in from hub center or about 23-5/8" from the top of the hub. Rear is 25.25" fender to center of hub. Probably means I have 3" lift springs up front with a 2.5" rear block.

Will do.

Thank you.

Can some get me a hub to fender measurement for a stock m1008? Mine has a lift and I'm trying to figure out what it is. Front springs and a rear 2 or 2.5" block but fits 35s with room to spare. Judging by the speedo calibration I think it may have had 37s at one point. I did search btw, but...

And yup. Ground wire is cut off at the loom by the 12v block.. voltage I was seeing was thru the alt. Guess I'm going to buy some fusible links

Had a suspicion last night and sure enough found something else this morning. The 'ground' wire is getting 24 volt not 12. Guess I focused to much on the excite wire and not exactly what voltage the other connections had. I'll have to trace the wire and see where it is connected. The glow...

thanks for the help tow4. all the checks i ran seem to indicate the alternator still has a problem. i think it is the rotor as one of the slip rings seems to be shorting to the shaft. the resistance is really high at about 25-30 megaohms, but still a short. I ordered up a rebuilt 27si 100 amp...

very insightful. except not all alternators have one.

Mine did not have the resistor, but otherwise appears to be a standard unit. It has been rebuilt before so it is possible it had been removed for some reason. the kit i got didnt have new one, but i can order one if needed. I have seen your rebuild thread, thanks it was helpful. I am aware of...

I just rebuilt the passenger alternator in my M1008 and it is still not charging. it gets excite voltage and has power at the the other connections (even though the gen 2 light doesn't come on). When re-reading the TMs and stickies i noticed my alt didn't have a resistor that others do. See...

You may have misunderstood. These were 2 different things. Horn is fixed now. The black switch was causing issues with the brake lights. Still have some thing s to deal with but the truck was inspected yesterday and passed. It is now registered, insured, and on the road. 😁

And that was exactly what it was. black out switch being finicky. getting closer now.

if you mean the wiring connector, it is very possible. ill make sure it is secure later. but the switch itself is on the service light setting, i was driving around with my headlights on, signals etc, worked.

well now my brake lights stopped working. also missing half of a reverse light socket. here we go again. guess it isnt getting inspected tomorrow. oh well time for a beer

Cleaned the firewall connector and reassembled. Most of the fuses were wrong so I changed them out. That got me power to the circuit. Still didn't work. Turns out my new relay was bad or wrong. Changed that and it is working now.

thanks, i have found those already though and have been looking at them. horn is good. it is brand new and i have jumped it with direct 12v and it works. i am not getting any power from the horn fuse.

thanks, pulling off the fuse box was my next step. black out lights work, service lights work. diode is probably still there as the factory wrap appears to be intact, but i think the suppressor is gone already. least i didnt see it. this had no horn and gutted horn contact when i got it.

Im trying to get my m1008 inspected and registered. Im up in canada and one of the things they need is a horn. i have a new horn and relay, but horn doesnt sound, relay just clicks. no power on the orange wire and dont seem to have power to the horn fuse. i have power at the ignition fuse...