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Just trouble shot the horn for not working. Had the Deuce for over a year now and just now getting to it. I shot the wires and they checked good to the solenoid. I had previously ordered a surplus solenoid (used tested). Slaved it in and finally got the air to flow. So, at the same time...
The filters that came out were the same style, metal outter band around the filter element. I will probably order a oil pressure gauge or two and install them. See what the pressure really is. Also need to verify that the pressure sender is actually a 120psi sender. Since the gauge is 120...
Unfortunately, I was away when the truck was dropped off. She claimed it as HERS! She want's to drive it, which she does. She needs to know how to maintain it. :)
Yea, I did see there are gauges that go to 60 and 120. And you have to have properly matched gauges and senders (60/60 or 120/120). I also saw everyone says pressure will go up after an oil change. But it's 90 psi at idle right after start up. I don't believe the gauge or sender would fail...
Nope just the stock canister filters. We are having a problem though. Been searching all morning. Oil pressure is 90psi now. Right filters, right oil. And gauge was working just fine prior to the change.
Well we (wife) changed the oil and filters yesterday. Wix 51133 filters, Rotella 14-40 T-4 oil. Pressure gauge which was working in normal range before the change. Is now reading 90 psi.
From searching I see the pressure regulator in on the right side of the block near the turbo. But why...
The wife changed the oil and filters (yes the wife did). She also lubed all the zerks she could find. Installed a new diesel tank cap as the original was rusting on the inside.
There is no trick to it. Just some general rules. There are a couple techniques that help keep it to lay down and have proper tightness. But it's hard for me to describe in words. It's more of a hand movement that needs to be seen. The biggest errors I catch as an inspector is too loose...
Actually aircraft work is not nit-picky, the manuals leave a lot to desire in many cases. More people get into trouble over paperwork than how they did something. There are bad apples and don't care if they do a job right, or even just pencil whip things (like lubes). But for the most part...
Even worse, as I have been an aircraft maintenance inspector for the last 17 years. The paperwork dotting the I's and crossing the T's gets even worse.
I am not home at the moment. But if I remember right, they tied it into the cargo bed, and into the drivers side step structure. I do not believe they welded it to the frame. Also where the tool box would be under the drivers door. There is a gasoline tank that steps were built into, to...
The chinese clones will work for most purposes. They are a bit fatter than the "name brand" ones. And they will wear out quicker. But if your not going to do a lot of safety wiring, they will work fine. If your only going to do one or two things. Just do it by hand. I'm a 25 year aircraft...
Unless he's using wood made before Dec 2003, there is no arsenic in it. The new stuff is alkaline copper quad. It uses copper as the main treatment. And the reason you need to use a coated fastener. Any normal steel or even zinc coated fastener will rust quickly. It's the reason when you go...
Well it was good that you decided to sharpen the bit yourself. As another new one from the same company might have been the same. Manufacturing has been going down hill for a while now. Pretty bad when you have to sharpen a new bit.
Yes, the conversion to tanker removed everything where the spare would go. Actually this truck was well maintained. It may have done more "parade" duty than fire duty. As the tires are 14 years old but barely used. And they are not a "normal" surplus sized tire. So, I don't think they were...
I have a "chinese" one that works good so far. But it's still not cheap. I think I paid about $500 for mine. There are some going for 1/2 of that now on Amazon.