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I worked my way carefully through all of guyfang's steps, and none of the components mentioned tested as bad. Everything seems to be normal, except I can't get the start switch to do anything (no preheat click, no fuel pump noises, no crank). Dead crank works fine. I'm wondering at this point...

Thank you both for the suggestions -- I will work my way through this over the next few days and let you know what I find.

Hi, I've looked through the TM's troubleshooting procedures but can't find anything that addresses the random behavior I'm seeing with my MEP-802A. Since I got it, sometimes it acts completely normal. The control panel has power, it starts right up and runs just fine. I have load tested it...

Appears the price has gone up, but $140 for a complete genuine Cummins gasket set doesn't seem like that bad of a deal. I'm going to pick one up. Thanks for the help.

Hi, I'm looking for a source for the gasket that goes between the water pump mounting plate and the block. Also, if I can get them, I'd like to replace the sleeve and preformed packings that go between the block and the water pump. Anybody know where I can get these?

Ok, you know what? I'll go it on my own. Enjoy yourselves.

Excuse me for trying to help.

I already told you I have the quad winding fuse mod. So you're claiming that if the stator is blown, the engine won't even crank from SW1? That makes no sense from the wiring diagram. Nor does it square with the fact that the engine cranks just fine from the dead crank switch. I'm trying to...

This thread is about MEP-802A parts. These hoses are MEP-802A parts. You'd prefer I started an entirely new thread for this?

Confirmed that Team Equip is legit; I got my hoses in the mail today.

This is wonderful and very helpful. Thank you for your work on this.

I'm not completely clueless when it comes to engines and electrical. I'm a ham radio operator, and I've owned a dozen diesel vehicles, all of which I've maintained. Also, I'm an IT guy. So please go ahead and stop assuming that I'm clueless, would you? Thanks. I don't need to read through a...

No. I'm at work today, 30 miles away. As I said above, when the weather doesn't suck (it does today), I will work through the troubleshooting procedure.

Yes, I know. I'm well aware of how one of those switches works.

I believe S17 is the emergency stop switch. I did check that. If it's pulled out, I get the fuel and temperature gauges zeroing themselves when I turn the master switch to "prime & run", but nothing else happens. If S17 is pushed in (as expected), I get nothing. It seems I've got 24v to two...

Thanks Daybreak. Mine has the bakelite-style S1 switch, and it does have the quad fuse fix installed already.

My S1 is a five-position switch: Preheat - Off - Prime & Run Aux Fuel - Prime & Run - Start. 919.2 hours. Letterkenny Army Depot did a Tier 2 RESET in 2008 at about 4 hours on the set, so it's seen some use since. Radiator hoses were in terrible shape and there was no coolant in the rad or the...

Ok. I looked at two of the bulbs (wasn't able to unscrew the third) and the filaments looked good, but that's the extent of how sure I am. I've got the 802A operations manual and will work through the no-crank troubleshooting procedure.

Hi all, One of the things missing from my MEP-802A is the FU1 fuse and holder. I've been able to find from other threads that a 30 amp ceramic fast-blow fuse should go in there; I'll work on finding a fuse and end cap. I'm wondering, does the FU1 fuse serve any purpose other than to let the...

Hi all, as a very new owner of a MEP-802A, I immediately discovered two things: the coolant had all been drained out of mine, and the bottom radiator hose was in terrible shape -- in fact, when I pulled it off the twisting created huge cracks throughout. The radiator hoses were challenging to...