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No problem, thanks for writing back.

What's the word?

Cool. I'm not asking for pics because of trust issues, just to ensure we're talking about the same thing. :)

Any luck on pics?

I bet you could get good money for the NOS on ebay. I'm happy with faded ones, since I'll color them anyway, as long as they don't have cracks or holes. The only data point on price I have is a place on-line selling panels for $15 each, but he hasn't responded to my email. How about $60...

I was going for black in the end. Did they come that way? My current ones are reddish brown.

Looks like the one. I can see the little spring I'm missing right on top. While we're at it, do you have a set of interior door panels in decent shape? I don't care about them being faded, but don't want cracks, damage or modifications from original. Thanks.

Did you get my response to your PM?

My fuel gauge is suddenly reading way past full. I'm going to poke around and figure it out, but wanted to get input from the group to get a running start. If it is reading way past full, is that likely a ground problem, or something else? I can't remember if the senders read high resistance...

I scoured the yards around here for something else last week. Around here at least, these trucks are too old. The oldest trucks I found were from around 1995 or so. Anyway, yeah, if you have the guts from the lock mechanism, I'm interested.

I guess I was unclear. It has nothing to do with the cylinder. There is machinery between the cylinder and the pull knob that rotates the cylinder and also makes it go "click" when you push/pull the knob. Without it, it's loose. I'm missing a spring that goes with that machinery.

One of my door locks is loose, such that the pull knob can just fall down when the door is closed. It is also loose with the key. Basically, it's missing any sort of detent to keep it either locked or unlocked. Otherwise, it works fine. After poking around in there, I noted that the working...

Okay, yeah I saw those things for sale. The one I saw had a bushing to provide some flex, but it didn't look like much. When a 205 is twin stick, is it one stick for 2/4 and one for hi/lo, or one for hi/lo front and one for hi/lo rear? The t-case in my Scout is the former, so it's always twin...

Nice. What's the extra plate on the rear of the case?

Don't need one, but I'd like to recover the length to make the angles less severe. Also like being able to remove the driveshaft without oil going all over.

I understand the trade-off in gearing. With 1-ton axles and TH400, the 205 seems like the right choice in terms of strength. I'm also very interested in losing the slip yoke, and this seems easier on a 205. They have 208 and 241 SYE kits, but they are very expensive, plus the cost of a 241 if...

I'm trying to learn about NP205 cases, mostly because I'd like to swap one into my Blazer, but also just for my knowledge. A guy on another forum mentioned that the CUCV 205's have the figure-8 input pattern, but also the 32 spline long input. It's my understanding that the 32 spline long...

Should have some sort of a valve at the filter you can open for this purpose. I have a little petcock thing on mine. Personally, I just opened that valve and cranked it until fuel was coming out, then shut it. If it starts, that's okay, but I don't think it will. Don't crank it forever and...

Yup. Strange because the chargers thought both batteries were good, and even with a running vehicle jumped to the bad battery it would not start. I just happened to notice that after loading the batteries, it took one of them a minute or more to get back to 12.5. Replaced that and all is...

Hopefully this is a dumb/basic question. Went to start the M1008 today and all I got was rapid fire solenoid (I think) clicking. I normally associate this with dead batteries - the starter engages, then the voltage drops, the solenoid releases, repeat... So, I charged both batteries all day...